Kosher Blog

Strawberries & Rhubarb

Rhubarb has a fairly short growing season in New England, and it happens to be now. This is also a great time to get fresh strawberries, which may be one reason why the strawberry-rhubarb combination is such a classic. It’s also quite delicious.

My parents like to end meals with a chilled strawberry-rhubarb compote, which is very refreshing. Their formula: Combine strawberries, rhubarb, water, and sugar in a saucepan, simmer, and continue adjusting ingredients until it tastes good. (If you prefer a bit more precision, start with this recipe and adjust to taste.) Rhubarb is quite tart, so you will need a fairly high proportion of sugar, but bear in mind that cooked berries become significantly sweeter as they cool.

When I have guests, I like to show off a bit with a strawberry rhubarb crisp, served warm and topped with vanilla ice cream or a parve substitute. I use a modified version of a recipe in the New Moosewood Cookbook:

Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp
2 pounds rhubarb, cut into bite-size pieces
2 pints strawberries, sliced
1/3-1/2 cup granulated sugar*
1 1/2 cups (1 1/2 sticks) butter or margarine
1/3 cup dark brown sugar
1 tsp cinnamon
a dash each allspice and nutmeg (optional)
1/2 tsp salt
3/4 cup whole wheat flour mixed with 3/4 cup all-purpose flour (or 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour)
2 cups rolled oats
real or parve vanilla ice cream (not optional!)

Preheat oven to 375 degrees Farenheit.

Combine rhubarb, strawberries, and sugar in an 11 x 13 inch baking pan.

Place the butter or margarine in a large, microwave safe bowl and microwave 1 minute or until melted. (Alternatively, melt in a saucepan over low heat, then transfer to a large bowl.)

Add brown sugar and spices to the warm butter and mix until well blended. Gradually mix in flour, then oats. (Toward the end, it will be easiest to use your hands.)

Distribute oat mixture evenly over fruit. Bits of fruit will peek out from under the topping.

Bake uncovered for 35-40 minutes or until fruit has begun to bubble. Allow to cool slightly. Serve in bowls, topped with ice cream.

*Made with 1/3 cup sugar, the crisp is quite tart.

(Cross-posted to Apikorsus)

Note: The crisp will not suffer from a few hours in a warm oven, so it can be served on Friday night.

Cheese Latkes: Passover Edition

Around Chanukkah time, I posted a recipe for cheese latkes that I hadn’t yet tried. I made a batch tonight using matsah meal and ricotta. I liked them a lot, but the batter was very thick even though I had beaten the egg whites, and that made it difficult to form neat pancakes. It also made the latkes a bit rich for my taste. (Actually, I felt like my heart was going to fall out of my chest, but that probably had something to do with the whole milk ricotta and the butter I used for frying.) If you’re thinking of using the recipe, I recommend skimping a bit on the flour or matsah meal and adding some milk to thin the batter. Also, if you care about your heart, you might want to use cooking spray instead of oil or butter.

I’ll try to report again the next time I make a batch.

Passover Kugels

Perhaps they were influenced by the Rosh Hashanah edition of the New York Times. At any rate, this year’s Passover edition of the Boston Globe Food section has an emphasis on kugel. There is an uniformative but innocuous article on Passover kugels, along with recipes for potato kugel, mushroom, onion, and farfel kugel, and festive fruit kugel. (The paper also includes some Passover desserts: coconut and almond macaroons with chocolate coating and flourless mocha cake.)

Inspired, I’ve decided to share my own favorite Passover kugel recipes. The first is a savory farfel kugel that’s so simple and easy to make, you’d think it couldn’t possibly be good, but it really is delicious. The second is a vegetable kugel that’s as beautiful as it is tasty. The farfel kugel recipe is from my mother. I found the vegetable kugel recipe on the internet and have subsequently seen it in a number of kosher recipe archives. DH and I make it all year, but it is appreciated most on Passover.

Continue reading Passover Kugels »

As if There Weren’t Enough Confusion This Time of Year

Today’s New York Times Dining & Wine Section has an article by Joan Nathan on new leniencies introduced by rabbis who are trying to “simplify” Passover observance for their constituents.

At least, that’s the way it’s presented.

In reality, none of these so-called leniencies are actually new. Jews who think that baking soda isn’t kosher for Passover because it is “leavening” are simply mistaken. Only the “five grains” — oats, wheat, barley, rye, and spelt — can meet the halakhic definition of “leaven,” or chametz. Baking powder typically contains corn starch, which is problematic for those who adhere to Ashkenazi custom, but the corn starch can be replaced with potato starch to make kosher for Passover baking powder. There is nothing wrong with the leavening per se.

Continue reading As if There Weren’t Enough Confusion This Time of Year »

Cheese Latkes

Most Jews are aware of the custom to eat fried foods on Chanukah, in commemoration of the miracle of the oil related in the Talmud (Shabbat 21b). Far fewer are familiar with the custom of eating dairy products, especially cheese, which is mentioned in the Shulchan Aruch (O”H 670). According to the RaMa (R. Moses Isserles, c. 1525-1572), the cheese eaten on Chanukah recalls the milk that the heroine Judith served to a Greek general (presumably during the Hasmonean revolt) in order to make him sleepy and give her the opportunity to put him to death. Those who have read the apocryphal book of Judith might find this curious, since, although the book does relate the assassination of a general by the heroine, it makes no mention of dairy products and has no obvious connection to Chanukah. The story takes place during the reign of Nebuchadrezzar, over 400 years before the Hasmonean revolt, and Judith lulls the enemy general to sleep with wine, not milk, before decapitating him.
Continue reading Cheese Latkes »

Jewish Food Day in the Papers

The Wednesday before Rosh HaShanah has special significance: it is the day when the New York Times Dining & Wine section and the Boston Globe Food section go Jewish. Today’s Times features an article on kugel and an exceprt from Marcie Cohen Ferris’ Matzo Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales From the Jewish South, along with a recipe for “Rosh Hashana Jam Cake.” The Globe features an article on the expanding role of hekhshers in American life as well as a brief column on Rosh HaShanah with accompanying recipes. There is also, curiously, an article on a kosher restauarant in Madrid.

As expected, the articles are not particularly interesting or informative, but it is sometimes worth having a look at how Judaism in general, and Kashrut in particular, are reperesented in the mainstream media. Joe Yonan’s article on hekhshers seems generally fair and accurate, although the phenomenon on which it focuses — the deliberate selection of kosher products by consumers who don’t keep kosher — continues to strike me as absurd. The article opens with the story of an Episcopalian with a dairy allergy who seeks out “kosher parve” labels, and goes on to mention others who buy hekhshered products in the belief that they are safer, healthier, or more “pure.” Somehow it continues to escape people that hekhshers are not indications of health or safety, only kashrut. Those with dairy allergies would do best to read the allergy information now available on most packaged foods, which account not only for dairy ingredients and equipment, but also for the potential presence of airborne particles. (Lactose intolerate individuals, on the other hand, are best off looking for “lactose free” labels, which may appear on some products that are halakhically dairy.) Consumers concerned about pesticides, antibiotics, or the humane treatment of livestock should look for organic produce or free-range poultry, respectively. People who are worried about their health should read nutritional information. Only those concerned about the kashrut of their food should be looking for hekhshers.

Joan Nathan’s New York Times article bears the tantalizing title “Kugel Unraveled,” but fails to address the underlying philosophical question: what makes a kugel a kugel? Nathan mentions that the word “kugel” comes from the German word for “ball,” but her statement that kugel is traditionally round doesn’t really explain its etymology — a circle is not a ball. (In his World of Jewish Cooking, Gil Marks presents a somewhat more compelling explanation, though I can’t vouch for its accuracy. Originally, he claims, a “kugel” was a round dumpling made from flour or stale bread and cooked inside a pot of cholent. Eventually, the term came to refer to any baked dish prepared without water and held together by eggs and fat.) The article does, however, address such topics as the mystical qualities of kugel, and the accompanying recipes for “killer kugel” (milchig), Jerusalem kugel (parve), and broccoli-potato kugel (parve) are probably fabulous, considering that they come to us by way of the eminent Joan Nathan.

None of this year’s Rosh HaShanah recipes are actually treyf, but a number of the side-dishes and desserts (including the Globe’s apple cake and noodle kugel and the Times’ “Rosh Hashana jam cake“) are dairy, and therefore incompatible with fleishig holiday meals. The Globe’s recipe for carrot tzimmis can be made parve, however, and its “braised brisket with wine and tomatoes” doesn’t look half bad.

Nine Days Cookery

OK. The Nine Days are over and it’s time for a (late) write-up of the non-meat cookery I experimented with this year. Of course there’s no reason why the meatless cookery can’t continue beyond the nine days - it just always turns out that way. Probably something to do with my carnivorous nature. This years’ ‘projects’ included Cedar Plank Cooked Salmon and Grilled Pizza.

Cedar Plank Cooked Salmon - everyone is familiar with “cold-smoked salmon” aka lox. Cedar plank cooked salmon is a “hot-smoked salmon”. A seasoned side of salmon is placed on a cedar board that has been soaked in water, and then the fish and board are placed together onto a heated grill. The board is supposed to smolder and give off smoke that seasons the fish as it is cooking. Supposedly, it’s the way the American Pacific Northwest Indians cook their salmon. Of course, nothing is keeping you from using any fish you want - salmon just seems to be the ‘original’ recipe. I can’t really call this cooking method “grilling”, because the wooden board is between the fish and the fire. Not really “smoking”, because the temperatures are too high. I think it might qualify as “indirect grilling”, but I’m going with the simple “cooked”. My seasonings were ultra-simple: a dry rub of salt, pepper, sugar, cumin and garlic-powder. The package suggested maple syrup (very pacific northwest), but I didn’t have any. I’ve used this same spice-rub for broiled fish.

From some of my previous posts, you might know about my fondness for smoke-cooking and smoked-meat. All of my experiments to date have been with meat & poultry. I have to admit, I didn’t really enjoy this recipe - the smoke flavor was too strong. I can see how meats would have a more assertive flavor that mixes with the smoke flavor, but in this case the smoke flavor won out. Maybe my seasonings weren’t strong enough. Would a stronger/sweeter seasoning would mellow out the smoke flavor? I’m not sure. I would try it agin with a more assertive dry-rub or marinade, but this time, I would have rather had it baked or broiled. If you’ve had a better experience with plank-cooking, let us know about it.

One thing that this cooking method has going for it, is the absolutely easiest cleanup - nothing of the fish leaked over the sides of the board. When the board was removed from the grill, cleanup was done.

Grilled Pizza - I too experimented with pizza, but as opposed to jabbett’s Barbecue Chicken Pizza, my toppings were more traditional. But these pizzas were cooked on a charcoal grill. A method that I’m glad to say, created a delicious pizza.

I’ve seen recipes for grilled pizzas before, but I never worked up the nerve to try it myself. When this month’s Cooks’ Illustrated had a recipe for grilled pizzas, I decided it was time. Empty pizza dough rounds are put on a hot charcoal grill, until cooked on the bottom. The half-cooked dough is taken back to the work area, and the cooked side gets the toppings. In this case, the toppings were a spicy-garlic oil, diced plum tomatoes and cheese. (I know that some of the readers of this blog are cheese fanatics - please don’t shun me for using regular, supermarket, pre-shredded pizza cheese. The recipe called for Fontina and Parmesan. I used what I had handy.) After the toppings are in place, the pizza goes back on the grill, so the uncooked side can get done, and the cover is put on, so the toppings can melt.

As you can see here, when the cheese wasn’t melting fast enough for me (perhaps we piled it on too high?), it was time to bring out the blow-torch. After a brief torching, the cheese was nice and bubbly, and pizzas were done. Please be careful when you cook with a blowtorch. Kosherblog accepts no responsibility.

The pizza was absolutely delicious. The texture and flavor of the charred dough were very nice. Again, the next time I make this I will add more flavors/spices - the simple tomato topping didn’t have enough flavor for my tastes - but I never met a pizza I didn’t like. As long as the toppings are fairly dry and quick cooking, they should work out fine.

I had one dish that I meant to make on the Nine Days, but didn’t get a chance. So, I made it for dinner last night. The dish was Seitan Piccata, and It was great. Don’t know what seitan is? You’re going to have to wait for my next post to read about it. Until then…

Barbecue “Chicken” Pizza

Here’s the recipe that was published in last week’s Jewish Advocate, a perfectly suitable choice for the Nine Days. In fact, Lightlife’s KOSHER PAREVE Chick’n Strips are remarkably chicken-like in texture, so they may even satisfy your yearning for boneless, skinless chicken breast pieces. (Photo by the inimitable David Levy.)

BARBECUE “CHICKEN” PIZZA
Makes two single-serving pizzas

Notes:
• See our roundup of barbecue sauces to help choose one appropriate for this recipe.
• Refrigerating fresh dough after it’s made helps it develop a better texture, but make sure it’s back at room temperature before using.
• If you can’t slice your onion into very thin rings (I used one of those nifty Japanese ceramic mandolines), saute thicker slices before topping the pizza.
• If you don’t have a pizza stone, don’t buy one. An ideal (and cheap) alternative is covering your oven rack with several unglazed quarry tiles, available at Home Depot.
• If you don’t have a pizza peel, use a baking sheet that’s been turned upside down.

1 package Smart Menu Chick’n Strips (www.lightlife.com)
8 Tbsp. barbecue sauce
1 Tbsp. cornmeal
1 lb. pizza dough, divided into two equal rounds (store-bought works great)
1 small red onion, sliced into rings as thinly as possible
1 cup shredded mozzarella
1/2 cup shredded cheddar

1. Place pizza stone or tiles on bottom rack of oven, and preheat to 500 degrees.
2. Toss Chick’n Strips in two tablespoons of the barbecue sauce and set aside.
3. On a well-floured surface, spread dough round into thin 10″ circle using your hands or a rolling pin. (Shape isn’t important so long as it’s thin.)
4. Sprinkle half of cornmeal evenly onto pizza peel and lay dough over cornmeal. This will help you slide the pizza into your oven. Lightly prick dough all over to prevent dough from bubbling excessively in oven.
5. Spread 3 tablespoons barbecue sauce over pizza; sauce should just lightly cover dough.
6. Sprinkle 1/4 cup mozzarella over pizza, then about 1/3 cup Chick’n Strips, 1/4 cup cheddar, some red onion slices, and another 1/4 cup mozzarella. (You will likely end up with left-over Chick’n and onion)
7. Slide pizza directly on top of hot stone/tiles and bake for 10 minutes. Pizza will be golden brown around the edges and the cheese very bubbly.
8. Slide pizza back onto peel and remove from oven. Let cool a few minutes and cut into slices.
9. Repeat with remaining ingredients.

Ten Pound Lasagna

My mother makes a great lasagna, and I’ve often tried to emulate it but with only moderate results. Don’t get me wrong, they’ve been very tasty, just always lacking something.

So, I’ve come to terms with the fact that no-boil lasagna noodles just don’t cut it. Both Barilla- and Prince-brand no-boil noodles are good in a pinch; if you have the time, though, boiling curly lasagna noodles is worth it for better texture and structure.

The right sauce is also critical. I’ve been happy with Barilla’s Italian Baking Sauce; great taste and widely available. When I have the opportunity, I pick up a big can of Frutta! Di Orto Marinara Sauce at Cirelli Foods; 6 lbs. 11 oz. of the chunky sauce will satisfy two hefty lasagnas.

Morningstar Farms Veggie Crumbles provide the final kick, imparting a meaty flavor and hearty texture to an otherwise limp pasta dish. Non-kosher diners think it’s ground beef, and kosher folks don’t suspect a thing.

And then we get to cheese. I’m a purist when it comes to cheese in a lasagna: ricotta, Parmesan, and mozzarella. No cottage cheese. No tofu. No muenster. Just simple ricotta, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, and shredded mozzarella.

Put all that together, and you have a whopping 10 lb. of “Italian noodle kugel,” certainly more substantial than any back-of-the-box recipe.

TEN POUND LASAGNA

• 2 cups part skim ricotta
• 2 large eggs
• 1 Tbsp. dried parsley
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan
• 5 cups hearty tomato sauce
• 12 oz. (one bag) Morningstar Farms veggie crumbles
• 1 lb. curly lasagna noodles
• 1.5 lb. mozzarella, shredded

Boil lasagna noodles according to package directions. Drain and rinse with cold water.

Lay two connected sheets of paper towel over a baking sheet, and then place a single layer of noodles on towel. Cover with a sheet of wax paper, then another double sheet of paper towel. Repeat with remaining noodles, like photo above, and let cool until ready to use. If some noodles have ripped, that’s fine; use them to patch up gaps, or cut them up and eat them separately.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Mix ricotta with eggs, parsley, and grated Parmesan. Set aside.

Mix tomato sauce with veggie crumbles. Set aside.

Pour 1 1/2 cups sauce mixture in bottom of deep 9″ x 14″ pan. A disposable aluminum lasagna pan works admirably.

Cover with four lasagna noodles, overlapped slightly.

Spread half of ricotta mixture (approx. one cup) over noodles…

…then spread two cups sauce…

…and 1/3 of your shredded mozzarella. Repeat.

Add one more layer of noodles, two more cups sauce, and one more cup mozzarella. Sprinkle with additional Parmesan, if desired.

Wrap tightly with aluminum foil. Bake for 45 minutes.

Remove foil, bake for 15-20 minutes more, until cheese on top is lightly browned.

Remove from oven and let cool 20 minutes. Cut and serve, or let cool completely in refrigerator, cut into individual servings, wrap in aluminum foil, and freeze until desired.

Hadassah’s Carbonara

As my wife, mother, and mother-in-law are all members of Hadassah, the Women’s Zionist Organization of America, I’m no stranger to the monthly Hadassah Magazine, which is full of engaging interviews, exotic travel locales, and reviews of the latest in Jewish culture and media. I was completely caught be surprise, though, when, while noshing a light seudat shlishit this evening, I spotted a delightful little blurb about the Kosher Blog in the June/July issue’s “Brief Reviews” section (page 49).

It was fitting that reviewer Leah Finkelshteyn mentioned our “Tastes Like Treyf” section, as the following page features a witty tale of Adeena Sussman’s foray into the realm of vegetarian bacon. She offers a simple and delicious recipe for Pasta Carbonara — the rich spaghetti dish named for the carbonari (coal vendors) known to make it — and suggests using a tempeh-based “bacon” product from Lightlife called “Smoky Strips.” She describes them as “denser, meatier” with a “deeper smoky flavor” than the soy alternatives. I’ll be sure to try it when I sample the recipe, which I’ve included below.

PASTA CARBONARA
Adeena Sussman, Hadassah Magazine
4 to 6 servings

* 12 oz. linguine
* 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
* 9 strips vegetarian bacon
* 1/2 cup heavy cream
* 4 egg yolks, lightly beaten
* 1 cup (4 oz.) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
* Kosher salt
* Freshly ground black pepper

1. Bring pot of liberally salted water to a boil. Cook linguine until al dente, 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat butter in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add “bacon” and cook until crispy and browned. Remove from skillet to drain on paper towels; crumble when cool. In a bowl, whisk cream, egg yolks, and cheese to combine.
3. Draine linguine, reserving about a cup of water; do not rinse pasta. Return to pot and add cream mixture. Cook, stirring, over low heat until sauce coats pasta nicely. If sauce is too thick, add some reserved pasta water. Add crumbled “bacon,” salt, and pepper.