Pre-Pesach Kosher Wine Round-Up
As per usual, the Wall Street Journal (link) and New York Times (link) featured kosher wines in their wine pages recently. I will let them speak for themselves, for the most part, but I am happy that these columns left the usual refrain (”This isn’t your parents pancake syrup…err…Manischewitz anymore”). Eric Asimov, in the Times almost belittles those who write-off this growing section of the wine market.
I was glad that Dalton was well represented and well reviewed. That’s hardly a new development, but I remain a fan of most of their wines and recently attended a tasting run by Alex Haruni, Dalton’s owner. In addition to all of their single grape wines, which are great, I recommend the Alma, a Cab-Merlot blend, that I have had a few opportunities to try. It is a very drinkable wine that will certainly go well with anything on your seder table. I was also happy to see Galil’s Yiron ‘03 on the NYT list. I have loved the Yiron for the past few years, so I like to see it get good press.
I also recently attended the annual Kosher Wine Extravaganza at the Jewish Center on the Upper Westside, run by Gotham Wines & Liquors. As I mentioned to a number of people there, an event like that, with hundreds of wines, is too overwhelming to write about cogently. And then I misplaced my notes. Anyway, a few of the noteworthy wines were:
- Tabor’s Adama line: I won’t say that I loved these wines, but I think it’s great that an Israeli kosher wine is giving consumers the opportunity to taste and compare the effects of terroir on wine. The line features volcanic, chalk and clay soil, among others. From the few that I tasted, the differences were very dramatic. Of course, there are other factors that might explain this and I’ll allow for the gimmick factor, but I welcome this addition to the market
- Recanati Cabernet Franc: I wish I had my tasting notes for this. This wine was specifically recommended to me and I really enjoyed it. It’s 100% Cabernet Franc and may be the first such wine from Israel. For those who want to expose their palates to something a bit different, it’s worth picking up a bottle or two.
- Chateau Leoville Poyferre: I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t know much about French wines, but that is one of the great things about an event like this. I could taste a number of French (and fairly expensive) wines. The Leoville is already wonderful and will be great over the next several years.
If I find my notes, I will add to this post, but for now I leave you with these and wish you a chag sameach!
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Got Garlic?
In the midst of my Seder cooking, while preparing a farfel kugel, I reached for my newly-purchased Rokeach garlic powder. Open, shake, shake…achoo!
It seems there was some sort of labeling error, and the bottle contains not garlic powder but rather white pepper. I scooped up the greyish pile of powder (I’ll never figure out why I didn’t notice color before shaking) and adjusted the recipe on the fly. A second container (also Rokeach - I wasn’t the one doing the shopping - and also purchased from the Butcherie) had the same problem, so I must assume that at least one whole lot was affected. At this point I figure I’ll survive without for the next few days. But if you found some of your side dishes this year a little more peppery than usual: now you know why.
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I Said It Was a War, Didn’t I?
The custom to avoid kitniyot has come under serious attack– serious enough to lead to the formation of the Kitniyos Defense League, a blog devoted to fighting the “very foolish movement” to reject the ban on kitniyot. On the opposing side is the Kitniyot Liberation Front, “fighting for truth and abandoning ’shtuth.’”
No, this is not Purim Torah, either, I’m sorry to say.
Hat tip to Jewlicious.
(Btw, have a look at those URLs.)
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Kugel Recipe Correction
Last year, I posted a couple of Passover kugel recipes, one of which was a farfel kugel recipe from my mother. Due to a miscommunication with my source, I neglected to include the instruction to sautee the onions. The recipe been corrected.
I know that at least one person tried the recipe last year, and I apologize if the kugel was disappointing. I myself prepared it without sauteeing the onions and thought it was all right, although not up to the usual quality.
A chag kasher v’sameach to everyone!
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Forget Quinoa — Now They’re Coming For Our Pot
I’m afraid this doesn’t appear to be Purim Torah.
One thing confuses me about the article. The statement that
“the rabbinic injunctions banning hemp were never adopted by Sephardic Jews” suggests that pot is considered kitniyot, not chametz. The Ashkenazi prohibition of kitniyot applies only to eating, not to ownership or “benefit,” yet Michelle Levine, the Green Leaf Party spokesperson interviewed in the article, says that “if you have it in your house you should get rid of it.” True, Levine is not a rabbi, and her halakhic advice should probably taken with a grain of . . . ahem . . . salt. But I’m a bit concerned about the statement about hemp in “health oils.” Are we talking food here, or “nutritional supplements,” or cosmetics? Where did the AP get the idea that this was an issue? I hope it wasn’t from a rabbi who thinks that you can’t use kitniyot on your skin.
(Clarification: In anticipation of certain comments, I will state the obvious: it is probably against halakhah to own or smoke marijuana in places where it is illegal, whether you are Ashkenazi or Sephardi. That includes Israel, at least for the time being.)
[UPDATE: Here is a more detailed Jerusalem Post article.]
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What to really expect at your first Passover seder
Jane Moritz, owner of the Challah Connection, published an article on a wire service about attending a Passover seder for the first time — what to expect, what to do, what some of the traditions are. Unfortunately, it’s completely geared toward sedarim held in less-observant households.
When it comes to our seder, we by no means provide the most comprehensive or punctilious service in town — but even in our rather modern household, much of Ms. Moritz’s advice should be disregarded.
And so, I provide corrections for the frum home, or “What to really expect at your first Passover seder.”
Start Times
This year, expect the first night’s seder to begin after 7PM, the second night’s after 8PM, exact time depending on when your host gets back from evening services. Don’t walk in with any expectation of when it will conclude, aside from “before the morning prayers” — don’t worry, you’ll understand that reference soon. Ahead of time, it’s perfectly okay to ask your host how long it usually takes.
The Haggadah
Sedarim and the haggadot used therein vary widely. Your seder may be conducted entirely from the Hebrew text, with a mix of Hebrew and English, or mostly English with some important Hebrew sections thrown in for authenticity. Many sedarim include lengthy discussions between the major sections, when participants are encouraged to share their own interpretations or those printed within the haggadah text. Luckily, at an American seder, your haggadah will nearly always contain a translation that you can use to follow along while any Hebrew is recited. Don’t feel embarrassed if you’re lost or need some help — even the more seasoned Jews among us struggle with this once-a-year ritual.
Counting down to the food
By this point in Jewish history, it’s pretty cliche to complain about the number of pages left until the festive meal. The rest of the year, you, like me, probably eat like an animal, chomping down a Hot Pocket (or rabbinically-approved alternative) whenever and wherever the urge strikes. Why is this night different from all other nights? You’ll actually be hungry by the time the brisket rolls out — so smile and be glad to have the opportunity to eat like a mensch.
The Four Questions
By all means, brush up on the Jewish trivia, but you needn’t “practice” the Four Questions. The youngest at the table (a child, typically) does the formal recitation, so instead, think up a couple incisive questions of your own to ask of your fellow participants.
What to bring
Trust me — it is a great honor for your host to have you in attendance, and he certainly will not be upset if you show up with nothing but an open mind and empty stomach (to use the parlance of our times). Certainly, if you’re unfamiliar with the Jewish dietary laws, err on the side of caution — the house you’re visiting has been scrubbed, scoured, singed, and soaked for at least a week already, and you don’t want to stumble in with any unkosher or leavened items. Maybe you have a religious coworker at the office? The guy with the beanie, or the woman who comes in with perfectly coiffed hair, often with headband, in different colors and styles each day of the week — ask if they can recommend an appropriate gift and where to purchase it. You may even want to show the purchased item to him/her to confirm its permissibility. People get pretty touchy about this Passover stuff.
But if your host says don’t bring anything — don’t bring anything. It’s okay!
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The Annual WSJ Kosher Wine Column
Today’s Wall Street Journal includes their annual, pre-Pesach review of kosher wines (link; subscription required). Their list of favorites provides a good range of what’s out there, which was their stated goal, but I am disappointed by the text of the article, which appears to merely be an edit on previous years’ columns. Rather than discussing the merits of available kosher wines or focusing on interesting regions or producers, Gaiter and Brecher have assumed the posture that this is their annual pitch in favor of kosher wines being considered real wine (”Next time you’re in a wine shop, even if you don’t keep kosher, you really should take a look.”), rather than pancake syrup (or however you prefer to describe the heavy malaga of the past). Indeed, if you look at the post discussing the 2004 column, you’ll find some of the same language. The pullout quote, while well-meaning I’m sure, just comes off as derisive after this many years: “Anyone who keeps kosher no longer has to settle for simple, sweet wines.” With a fair number of kosher wines receiving 90+ ratings year after year, some being described by Robert Parker as among his favorite wines overall, do we need to keep referring back to the swill of yore?
In any case, the wines that they single out are a mix of the familiar (Rashi Moscato d’Asti) and interesting (Goose Bay Pinot Noir). Living in NYC, I had the pleasure of attending the Jewish Center’s Kosher Wine Extravaganza, organized by Gotham Wines & Liquors, last week and will be providing comments on some additional wines in the coming days, but for now I will list the WSJ picks and comment where I can. The list is ordered “from white to red and from lighter to heavier.”
- Rashi Moscato d’Asti 2005 (Italy): G&B noted that “It’s hard to go wrong with any Moscato d’Asti as an aperitif or after-dinner wine,” and toss in the Bartenura version for the reader’s consideration. This is true and when I make fun of “the blue bottle” (or now the “green bottle” in Rashi’s case) it is only at the prevalent tendency to drink this dessert wine as a table wine. Of course, the bottom line with wine is to drink what you enjoy, but I expect that many would enjoy the Moscato d’Asti more in its intended role.
- Abarbanel Vin d’Alsace Gewurtztraminer 2004 (France): I am not usually a big fan of Gewurtz and haven’t tried this one, but G&B are and note that “this is an excellent example, clean and spicy, with a nose of roses and tastse of white pepper.” This was their favorite white of the tasting.
- Ramon Cardova Rioja Blanco 2003 (Spain): I have not tried this one, but I have enjoyed Ramon Cardova’s red rioja (as did G&B “in this tasting and in the past”). Knowing their audience, they describe this as “A white that could stand up to brisket.” I look forward to testing that theory.
- Dalton Rose 2005 (Israel): I have not tried this wine, but I am generally a fan of Dalton’s wines. They have been a consistently good producer for a number of years. I’ll have more to say about Dalton wines when I write about the Extravaganza. G&B describe this as “A good example of the increasing number of good roses available from all over the world,” so if rose is your thing, this is probably a safe bet.
- Dalton Barbera “Oak Aged” (Upper Galilee) 2004 (Israel): Again, I like Dalton wines. I did not get a chance to taste this at the Extravaganza, but a number of people were talking about it very favorably.
- Goose Bay Pinot Noir (East Coast) 2005 (New Zealand): G&B found this to be the best red of the tasting, and also like Goose Bay’s 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. I honestly don’t recall if I have had this wine before, so I’ll reserve judgment and leave you with G&B’s review: “Wine-lovers are excited about New Zealand’s Pinot Noir and this is a good one, with a haunting nose of earth, pepper and a little funk and a silky, fruity taste.”
- Teperberg Family Estate Meritage (Judean Hills) 2005 (Israel): Teperberg is only recently available in the States and I had the pleasure of tasting a few of their wines last week, including the meritage. I don’t have my notes from the tasting at the moment, so I’ll mostly rely on the WSJ review, with which I agree, but I recall the meritage as being a nice, full bodied wine that would like open up well if given some time to decant, even if in the bottle. Teperberg provides an interesting addition to what is, in my opinion, a strong crowd of quality Israeli wineries. G&B: “Lovely, Bordeaux-like nose, crisp and structured. Earthy, with good fruit and a long finish. Could age nicely. Good with brisket.”
- Bartenura Nebbiolo (Colline Navaresi) 2004 (Italy): I think I’ve had this wine in the past and consider it one of the more serious Bartenura wines that I’ve tried. It is a good solid red for anyone looking for a big Italian wine. G&B: “Interesting and tight, with intense, earthy fruit and the smell of blue flowers and rich earth. Fragrant. Good with all Italian food.”
In addition to their favorites list, I want to mention one of the few wines that they name in the text of the article, which I was able to try at the tasting last weekend. The Barkan Pinotage (Israel) is a relatively new and interesting addition. Pinotage is typically associated with South Africa and I have, for the most part, been disappointed with the South African wines that I’ve tasted. I found the Barkan Pinotage, though, to be good and certainly, as G&B suggest, worth a try. It carries a somewhat different profile than the pinot that makes up part of its ancestry and, in my opinion, makes a good addition to your repertoire of reds.
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New Trends in Passover Cheese
Nearly all kosher wines are also kosher for Passover, in large part due to the injunction to consume it in quadruplicate, but cheese, its eons-old sidekick, has never gotten much respect. That’s all changed this year, as evidenced in both local and virtual dairy cases, with reliably-certified cheeses from France, Italy, Denmark, and Vermont joining the traditional kosher options.
Several bars of Cabot medium-sharp cheddar arrived by UPS today, proudly brandishing an OU hologram. Brookline’s largest kosher market, the Butcherie, has a few French varieties in stock, including Makabi-brand Camembert and a soft, mold-ripened, goat- and cow-milk cheese called Le Pavé. I passed over the tiny two-dollar morsels of blue cheese, in favor of the pungent wedges of Kirkeby Danablu. As usual, they also had the standard Miller’s and Haolam cheeses, the blocks of which actually aren’t bad. We’ve been enjoying those baby Goudas and Muensters for a few years now, and the cholov yisroel Haolam Monterrey Jack is actually pretty decent, absent any alternatives.
In nearby Newton, Centre Market is carrying a large selection of French and Italian cheeses, including honest to goodness wedges of Provolone and Grana Padano (a close cousin of Parmigiano Reggiano) and whole wheels of French blue and Tomme — not to mention the finest prime meats in town.
Online options are also abundant this year — Cabot sells the OU cheddar exclusive at their website, and KosherItalia.com has 31 Passover-friendly products. In fact, they’ve just announced the arrival of both fresh cow mozzarella and fresh buffalo mozzarella, made in Italy on March 11 in preparation for the holiday.
With the simple addition of petite matzah crackers, a variety of jams and chutneys, some sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, and several bottles of fine wine, you’re ready to have a swanky — and fully pesadik — wine & cheese party.
I’ve often remarked that any holiday on which you can have steak and French fries every night isn’t really such a hardship. A well-stocked cheese drawer is yet another reason to believe that Passover could actually be a lot of fun.
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