Kosher Blog

2007 Boston Area Kosher Community Survey - Now Open!

Neil Rosenbaum and his Kosher Community Surveys LLC organization has just opened the second annual Boston Area Kosher Community Survey.

This survey is your chance to give your opinion about local kosher restaurants, grocery stores, and bakeries. The on-line survey is located at boston.kosher-community-surveys.com. A full report of the results will be distributed to the community.

Questions and comments should be directed to Neil at neil@kosher-community-surveys.com

Smokey Joe’s BBQ, Teaneck, NJ

Kosher Blog aficionado Seth writes in with his review of Teaneck’s latest kosher joint, Smokey Joe’s BBQ (494 Cedar Lane, 201-836-RIBS, RCBC supervision).

When I first discovered that a kosher restaurant with honest-to-goodness barbecue was opening in the area, I was pretty excited. After watching way too many barbecue competitions on the Food Network for my own good — imagining all the while what a real smoked brisket might taste like — I finally had the chance to try some for myself. Let me preface by saying that I have never had “real” barbecue beyond my meager attempts at smoking ribs, brisket and chicken with my backyard grill.

The restaurant used to be a kosher pizza joint and the decor hasn’t really been updated, but the smell when we walked in was amazing. The air was filled with the sweet and smoky scent of hardwood wafting from the open kitchen (a nice touch), where the gleaming stainless steel smoker stood as centerpiece.

We were seated rather quickly for a party of eight on opening night. Instead of the normal chips-and-salsa or slaw-and-pickles you might get at other kosher restaurants, here we were served exceptional cornbread with an amazing and distinctive onion jam.

The kids at the table started with the Aztec Corn Soup — a little spicy for them, but the adults loved it — and then enjoyed foot-long hot dogs and fantastic chicken nuggets.

I ordered the barbecue sampler plate with ribs, brisket, chicken, very good cole slaw, and pesto-rubbed corn-on-the-cob. The ribs were pretty good, the brisket was better, and the chicken was amazing. Probably the best piece of chicken I’ve ever had — in fact, I’m eating the leftovers as I write and even a day later it tastes great. To top it off, at each table, they have a bottle of some of the best barbecue sauce I’ve tasted.

One pleasant surprise was the impressive number of vegetarian options on the menu. We mentioned this to the owner, who told us he used to be a vegetarian so he understands the plight. My wife — a vegetarian — got the barbecue tofu taco salad. Aside from the tofu being cold it was another hit.

The other dishes ordered at the table were the carnitas. They looked like pieces of meat and beans on Ritz Crackers; the presentation left a lot to be desired but they were pretty tasty. Otherwise, the brisket chili was very good and spicy, and their hamburger was descent.

Overall, the food was very good and I will definitely be returning. I enjoy spicy food but some of the dishes created by the Mexican chefs might be a bit too fiery for the unaccustomed palate. The owner noted that they were trying to play around with their spice mixture so they can adjust the heat without “dumbing down” the food.

As was expected on their opening night, the service at Smokey Joe’s wasn’t the greatest. Nevertheless, the owner was very accommodating, giving free guacamole to every table and even offering our neighboring table a free meal because their waiter forgot about them. He also encouraged everyone to give their honest input on the food and the service. If the owner can learn from these opening night hiccups, the restaurant is sure to be a success. I hope so because I’m going to need a constant supply of his smoked chicken.

Beacon Kosher owner passes tragically

Some tragic news for Boston-area glatt-kosher community: Moshe Cohen, the young owner of Brookline’s Beacon Kosher, passed away suddenly early this morning. He is survived by his wife and several children.

More details at TheYeshivaWorld.com

Jerusalem Pizza, Southfield, MI

Roving reviewer Ari is back with his take on a suburban Detroit curiosity.

I normally think reviewing pizza places is a waste — but Jerusalem Pizza of Southfield, MI is worth a mention.

After eating at Jerusalem Pizza a number of times, I’ve had the opportunity to try BBQ Chicken Pizza, Falafel Pizza, Mexican Pizza, Alaskan Pizza, Hawaiian Pizza, and a variety of others. If you check out the menu, you’ll notice that there are a number of other strange pizza offerings, including chulent and kishke, both of which I’ve heard are very good. In fact, first hand, I can say that most of the items served at Jerusalem Pizza are very good.

But is it “pizza?”

I’ve had bad pizza (Pizza Cave of Teaneck, NJ), mediocre pizza with good crust (Cafe Eilat of Brookline) and altogether excellent pizza (Jerusalem Pizza of Elizabeth, NJ). I’ve had overpriced pizza (Nut House of Silver Spring) and cheap pizza (Blue Cheese Pizza at Jabbett’s — free!). None of those places served a pizza that even vaguely resembles the item served by Jerusalem Pizza.

Jerusalem Pizza provides only three tables, so you will almost certainly be eating take out. The “pizzas” come in a familiar cardboard box, and look vaguely like traditional pizza. The crust is thick, crunchy, and a bit oily. The plain cheese pizza is mediocre.

But the specialty pizzas make Jerusalem Pizza stand out. In one notable example, BBQ sauce is layered with tofu chicken and cheese, while another layers corn, beans, and nachos. Tehina, falafel and olive oil? These pizzas offer a surprising variety to my jaded eyes. The thick crust is used as a vehicle to heap on toppings (frequently up to a half-inch mound).
The pizzas are too small, the crust is too thick, and everything costs too much. But I keep going back to Jerusalem Pizza because there are plenty of other pizza places if I just want a cheese pizza.

Avenue Deli — Exclusive Preview

It’s here — the Gordon & Alperin “kosher strip mall” is finally entering its delicious phase two. The Kosher Blog had an insider’s preview tonight of Avenue Deli, 549 Commonwealth Avenue, Newton, MA (under the supervision of Rabbi Aaron Hamaoui).

First, “deli” is such a limited term. While the restaurant has all our favorite deli standards — pastrami, corned beef, et al — the menu is dotted with so many other delicious choices like steak tips, hamburgers, kebabs, grilled panini, and hearty soups. But even such a menu is limiting, confides owner (and attentive chef) Ricardo Bosich.

He likes to wake up in the morning and think of new and fresh dishes to serve — so expect to see interesting, homemade specials listed.

Our dinner was just the tip of the proverbial iceberg. The hot corned beef and pastrami sandwiches (served on fresh bread from Bodavi Bakery next door) were both delicious, especially coming in from the bitter New England cold.

Reasonably priced, too — three dollars cheaper than Rubin’s. (Granted, Avenue Deli has counter service, but with Ricardo behind the counter, it’s a pleasure.)

And as a special treat, we were served a plate of grilled chimichurri-marinated steak. It looked so good, we forgot to take a photo before digging in…

The finishing touches are still being applied, so do call first and ask for the hours - 617-332-4170.

Milk Street disappoints

If last year’s community kosher survey is any indication, Milk Street Cafe is a fine restaurant. In general, I’ve concurred — their facilities, marketing materials, and catering operations have all been top notch. My lunch today, though, seriously shook my confidence in Milk Street’s abilities.

Strike 1: Asparagus soup. It smelled delicious and looked hearty, but with one spoonful, I frantically grabbed a napkin to spit it out. It was chock full of long, fibrous, gag-inducing strands, showing clearly that the cooked asparagus was never strained before being mixed with the other ingredients.

Strike 2: Napa panini. Completely imbalanced, the slippery contents fell from the sandwich time and again and the goat cheese was too overpowering — and I like goat cheese! What irked me the most was the roasted peppers — used with the skins still on. Yech.

Milk Street is a seasoned operation, celebrating their 25th anniversary this year. Perhaps in all that time, they’ve forgetten these basics of culinary education?

Nextbook @ Kosherfest

Nextbook’s Sara Ivry offers this podcast on her trip to Kosherfest. I won’t say it’s trite, but here’s hoping she’s gotten over her Manischewitz fixation. (Read the memo.)

Honestly, I’d like to think that if I were covering an unfamiliar ethnic food show, I wouldn’t marginalize its participants by harping again and again on their stereotypical foods. “Who knew that latino food was more than chimichangas and extreme fajitas?” “I was excited to try General Gao’s latest creations, but I learned that Asians have actually been around for thousands of years, and actually make fresh, seasonally-inspired foods without MSG!”

Okay, maybe the podcast wasn’t that bad, but, yes, it’s a sore spot for me :) One need not invoke the ghosts of seders past (or Susie Fishbein’s mind-numbing minions) to show one’s readers that there is a mature kosher food industry, full of people who are serious about health, quality, and all-around good eating.

More encouraging is Linda Kulman’s contribution to Nextbook, one that installs chef/author Laura Frankel (of Chicago’s Shallots Bistro) alongside kosher cookbook pioneers Judith Cohen Montefiore and Edith Levy. Frankel’s new cookbook, “Jewish Cooking for All Seasons,” is chock-full of innovative, seasonally-inspired recipes suitable for the kosher home, absent the cliche ethnic food (and the cliche comments about it).

Kosherfest Product Round-Up

NEW TRIBE HUMMUS FLAVORS
www.tribehummus.com (OU certified)
A longtime Sabra fanatic, I’ve recently become hooked on Tribe’s convenient “Snackers” product — four individual servings of hummus, each a different flavor — and their new varieties, including an organic line, are another great reason to give them a second look. In addition to their existing exotic flavors — like “Forty Spices,” Jalapeno, and French Onion — we tried chunky calamata, spicy chipotle, and horseradish — all excellent. Their new packaging is also very nice — perhaps their website will soon take a similar leap into the 21st century. With the label change, it seems the Taunton, MA-based company has abandoned the local KVH heksher for the more widely-recognized OU — a curious trend for many New England companies trying to build their interstate appeal.

NEW NESHAMA ORGANIC SAUSAGES (Star-K certified)
www.neshama.us

If anyone out there has an aversion to reheated turkey products, then rejoice! Not only are Neshama Gourmet’s latest additions USDA Organic, they’re made completely of chicken. These Mild Italian and Andouille links are heavenly, perfect for all-around grilling or incorporating in your favorite jambalya or turducken stuffing.

DANIEL’S KOSHER CHARCUTERIE (OK certified)
www.danielskoshercharcuterie.com
We had the pleasure of meeting Daniel Teboul, founder and chef of Daniel’s Kosher Charcuterie. He treated us to his three new kosher saucissons, smoked beef salamis which each reflect a unique culinary region of France. The classic salami,saucisson de Lyon, is a nice upgrade from your usual salami. The saucisson de Marseille is a spicy variant with which Daniel recommends a glass of Rosé. Saucisson de Paris is infused with spices and fresh garlic — all three are delicious. Our only regret was that the flavors weren’t stronger! We look forward to their spread outside New York.

GRYFE’S PIZZA, MUFFINS, AND CHALLAH
www.gryfes.com (C.O.R and/or Kof-K certified)
Gryfe’s Kosher Bakery of Toronto has the right idea when it comes to kosher baked goods — keep them natural, free of trans fats, and full of whole grains. Their muffins were tasty and conscienciously-sized. The pomegranate bran variety was refreshingly tart, and the low-fat blueberry has only three grams of fat, 150 calories, and keeps the carbs at a reasonable 28 grams. Their single-serving, fully-cooked frozen pizzas come in both regular and whole-wheat. Pop a whole-wheat pizza in your lunch box (or your kid’s) and by lunchtime it’s defrosted and ready to eat. They’re not artisinal, but they make an easy, enjoyable snack or meal. Soon to hit the shelves are their new par-baked pull-apart challahs. Out of the freezer and into the oven for a few short minutes, these all natural challahs — in plain, whole wheat, raisin, and half plain / half wheat — are a delicious way to lighten your pre-Shabbos workload.

KASHA: MORE THAN JUST VARNISHKES
www.thebirkettmills.com
Evelyn Spath of The Birkett Mills — maker of Wolff’s and Pocono Organic kasha products — reintroduced us to the wide world of buckwheat which, incidentally, spans much farther than your grandmother’s kasha varnishkes. I highly recommend ordering a copy of their cookbook which is full of delicious (though not always kosher) recipes — buckwheat chili, anyone? — and tips for incorporating the whole grain into your diet. For example, buckwheat flour works well in pastry dough since it’s gluten free — reworking won’t make your pastries tough.

OUTRAGEOUS COOKIE DOUGH
www.fatboycookies.com (OU certified, dairy)

Frozen cookie dough is nothing new, but gourmet dough that makes cookies this good while being kosher, free of trans fats, and freezable for up to a year is a welcome discovery. Each two pound box contains 27 cookie dough cubes — bake as many or as few as you like. Or make some of each of their six flavors: chocolate chunk, otameal raisin, peanut butter chocolate chunk, white chocolate pecan, cranberry walnut, and dutch chocolate chunk walnut.

SO DELICIOUS SOY ICE CREAMS
So Delicious Creamy Vanilla is the de facto pareve ice cream topping for fruit desserts in our home, and their new novelty products will also get the nod after our meat meals. So Delicious Minis have fewer calories and less fat than Tofutti Cuties, and the plastic wrapping is cleaner and easier to use than traditional paper wrapping. Creamy Raspberry and Creamy Orange bars are also low in fat and are only 80 calories each.

TEMPTATION VEGAN ICE CREAM
www.welovesoy.com (CRC certified, pareve)
Ben and Jerry’s is to standard ice cream as Temptation is to standard soy cream. This line of pareve, vegan ice creams leaves out the dairy but keeps all the richness and flavor. The mint chocolate chip flavor employs two natural mint sources for full impact, and the peach cobbler flavor was just plain superb. As an added bonus, Temptation is made by people who really mean it — a couple of bona fide vegans who are committed to a quality, premium product. Find Temptation at your local Whole Foods Market or wherever delicious, socially-conscious products are sold.

THOU SHALL SNACK: LATKE CRISPS
www.thoushallsnack.com (OU certified)
Latke crisps are a flawless conversion of the Chanukah staple into a tasty snack product. Available in two flavors — plain (pareve) and sour cream & onion (dairy) — they taste just like latkes, but they’re baked, and no grated knuckles, either. Yes, they’re all-natural and trans-fat-free. We look forward to creator Jill Ginsberg’s future snack creations!

YONI CHUTNEYS
Yoni-brand hot & spicy chutney from Israel was the surprise hit of the day among the Kosher Blog brigade. Its intense but complex flavor puts it far beyond the average chutneys on the shelf, which are often no more than simple mango jams. Unfortunately, the manufacturer’s website — toem-olam.com — is inaccessible, and their main distributor had a hard time understanding my question about the product’s availability. I guess I’ll just keep my eyes peeled.

KEDEM SPARKLING JUICES
We like to keep a few bottles of Kedem Sparkling Blush grape juice in the wine rack for our wine-averse guests, but their new Moscato, Zinfandel, and Merlot juices are pure marketing. Maybe they’ll fool your kids.

Stay tuned for more Kosherfest coverage, including the cheese scene, wines and liquors, organic meats, and security products. Review of Solo also on the way!

Next Week: Kosherfest 2006 Round-Up

It’s been two years since I’ve reported on Kosherfest, what with last year’s show being a relative disappointment with regard to innovative products. This time around, flanked and fortified by a crack team of Kosher Blog product analysts, we’ve got lots of good news to share. Expect the main Round-Up by Monday, followed by special reports from other members of the team, with topics ranging from kashrut security to the latest in fine wines.

This Sunday — Kosher Chili Cookoff in St. Louis

Congregation Nusach Hari B’nai Zion of St. Louis will be hosting its second-annual Kosher Chili Cookoff this Sunday, according to this press release. I’ve always wondered how to properly assure kashrut at such a community-wide event — not only do the organizers require that meat be purchased through the shul, and that their rabbi approve all other ingredients brought to the competition, but they even provide all the cookware and utensils.

For attendees, the $5 entrance fee will get you tasting rights until all the chili’s gone.