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February 29, 2008

2007 Simply Manischewitz Cookoff

On Tuesday, I attended the Finals for the 2007 Simply Manischewitz Cookoff, here in NY. Thousands of entries were whittled down to 6 contestants from across the country:

Read the rest of this entry »

February 13, 2008

Kosher ‘Top Chef’ News

A few Top Chef related news items made it into my inbox this week. (If you don’t already know, Top Chef is a reality-show on the Bravo network, where chefs compete for the title of ‘Top Chef’. It’s great fun, in my opinion.)

First, came the article about Ilan Hall (winner of the 2nd season), facing off against the executive chef of the University of Michigan Hillel, Emil Bloch, in a “Dorm Room Challenge“. After a little searching, and I found that this wasn’t Ilan’s first time cooking for a Hillel event. In April 2007, he was at the Fiedler Hillel Center at Northwestern University, cooking for the students. To be honest, I didn’t like him very much as a contestant, but I think that doing these sort of events is a really nice gesture.

Next, the New York Times is reporting that Hung Huynh, the winner of the Top Chef title in the 3rd season, will be doing a one month stint as the executive chef at restaurant Solo in NY, starting March 2nd. You may recall the KosherBlog review of Solo, after KosherFest 2006. I’m making my reservation now….

February 12, 2008

Things to come

It’s depressing to only see 3 new posts in the last 2 months. This is an inevitable consequence of our writers having families and full-time jobs. But, you’ve been loyal readers, as the ongoing threads of comments attest. Thanks for that. I wanted to take a second to give you all a heads-up on some upcoming events, and hopefully upcoming posts:

  • On February 27th, I’ll be attending (and reporting on) the Manischewitz Simply Kosher Cookoff finals in NYC.
  • The deadline for the OU Kosher Essay Contest is March 7th
  • The leap-month gives us some extra time to prepare, but Purim is coming! (March 21st) I hope to get at least a few Purim-food posts up.
  • Save the date! The 20th Annual ASBEE/Kroger BBQ Competition will be on Sunday, September 7th. Can we get a KosherBlog delegation?

That’s all I have for now. To keep things lively, here’s a question: Hamentashen are the definitive Purim food (IMHO). What foods do you consider integral to the holiday? And I specified “foods” - not “refreshments”. And no “but it’s made from grains” objections. :-)

January 25, 2008

Sunday: Ruth’s Kitchen “Renovation Celebration”

Edna Bension has spent the last three months renovating Ruth’s Kitchen — 401 Harvard Street, Brookline — and its menu, which now includes her mouth-watering Persian specialties and a healthy dose of additional Middle Eastern and Sephardic offerings. She will be open for a Renovation Celebration this Sunday, January 27, from 10 AM to 7 PM, with free samples between noon and 3. It’s a chance to think about what you might like for the following Shabbat, or even the Super Bowl. See you there!

November 26, 2007

BBQ Brisket at the ASBEE Competition

I had this final bit of coverage of the ASBEE BBQ Competition that I was holding on to, but today seems like a brisket-day, so here it is. The BBQ Railroad team, from the Baron Hirsch Men’s Club were the winners in the brisket category. Here were their responses (through David Schlesinger) to my post-game questionnaire:
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November 2, 2007

An Interview with a BBQ Champion

Continuing my follow-up coverage of the ASBEE BBQ, here’s a transcript of an e-mail interview I did with this Barney Abis - the pit-boss of The Meat Machers - this year’s ASBEE/BBQ Grand Champions. Barney and his teammate Steve Pepper came in first in the Ribs category.

Tell us about your team. How long have you been cooking together? Have you won before?

I have entered this contest the last 4 or 5 years. I do it for the fun of it. In fact, some years I have not even entered my meat into the judging. Too many friends coming by to nosh. One year I placed in beans, but I don’t remember if it was 1st or 2nd and I could never duplicate the recipe if I tried. A lot of improvising. My winning entry this year was ribs. This is my first time cooking with Steve Pepper. We have been friends since we were children. Since my partner from last year joined his son’s team, I asked Steve if he wanted to do the BBQ. The rest is now the stuff of legend. Incidentally, my partner from last year placed 2nd in ribs - I taught him everything he knows!

Describe your winning entry. How did you come up with the recipe?

Again, my recipe was improvised. Nothing written down and nothing measured. My method for beef ribs involves first scoring the back lengthwise and removing the membrane and then rubbing down with a dry rub, squeezing a little lemon over them and adding a little vinegar and sealing in a 2 gallon zip lock bag. This is done two or three days before the actual contest. This tenderizes the meat some. I then individually wrap each slab in aluminum foil and put on the BBQ grill for about 3 hours along with some water soaked hickory wood smoking on the coals, rotate them about every 30 to 45 minutes. When they are almost falling off of the bone I take them off of the grill, pitch the foil and fat, and rub them down with a rub that is primarily dark brown sugar with cumin, red pepper or chili powder, garlic powder, and whatever else looks interesting to throw in. The combination of sweet and spicy is good. I then put the ribs directly on the grill to glaze them. After only 5 or 10 minutes I take them off and slather some sauce on them. I use any decent commercial sauce and add the dry rub mentioned above to the sauce. This year we also added some honey. I then let the sauce cook on for a few minutes and they are ready to go. I have made them many times and have never done it the same way twice I am sure.

Does your team BBQ together throughout the year?

I don’t BBQ with friends during the year, however, I make the ribs on most of the traditional American holidays, July 4th, Labor Day, Memorial Day etc. I just enjoy cooking them out by the pool. My friends and mishpachah love these ribs as in Memphis we are in the land of treif and beef ribs are hard to come by. Beef ribs are more Texas style bbq. Memphis is definitely pork.

What does competing at the ASBEE BBQ mean to you?

Competing at the ASBEE means a couple of things to me. Camaraderie, fun, a few L’Chayims, and supporting our shul. It is nice because the entire Jewish community in Memphis comes together.

Any BBQ secrets, tips, advice?

My secret to bbq besides slow cooking is have fun, a few shots of single malt scotch and don’t take it too seriously.

October 30, 2007

Photos from the ASBEE BBQ

It has taken me much longer than I had planned to get these photos up, but here they are: My BBQ Photos.

As a bonus, here’s BBQ coverage from other sources:

A quick word on the Weingarts - David and Katherine quietly came from Virginia to ‘observe’ the BBQ. Over Shabbos they were adopted by the ASBEE Community. We became friends, and they became honorary members of my team. You can see the “I (heart) NY” pins I stuck on them. When the BBQ committee was short one judge for the ‘ribs and beans’ category, Katherine got drafted. Aren’t you jealous? They’re planning to come back to compete, next year.

Also, here’s the list of the winning teams at the BBQ:

  • Best Beans - The Cattle Menshes
  • Best Ribs - The Meat Machers
  • Best Brisket - The Baron Hirsch Men’s Club / BBQ Railroad
  • Best Booth - Memphis Area Jewish Young Couples / Harry Potroast and the Sorcerer’s Sauce
  • Best Name - Kollel Torah Metzion / Abe & Sarah’s Bed & Brisket
  • Grand Champion - The Meat Machers

My favorite team name? Beans Make You Sphard.

October 21, 2007

The BBQ is over…

The winners of the 2007 ASBEE-Kroger Kosher BBQ Competition were announced at 3:15pm. I didn’t win. I didn’t place. That’s OK, because I had an amazing time. I made many friends - the ASBEE community is comprised of some of the friendliest, most welcoming people I have ever met. This weekend, I discovered that my self-taught, NY-style BBQ is at least as good as BBQ that you’ll find in Memphis, Tennessee - and I tasted lots of that delicious BBQ today. Hopefully, this won’t be the last they hear of me. Incidentally, my team of one was called ‘I flew in from Brooklyn, NY for this BBQ and boy are my arms tired’. We’re looking for recruits for next year. I’ll be back home tomorrow night, and I’ll work on getting some of my photos up as soon as I can.

October 20, 2007

Live-blogging from Memphis

As I write this, teams around me are preparing their briskets, ribs and beans. Luckily, ASBEE has wireless internet. Last minute adjustments are being made, tasting and seasoning is going on all around. The cooking starts at 6:00am tomorrow - don’t expect any live-blogging tomorrow. My beans are done and in the cooler. My rib-glaze is done and in the cooler. I’m eating some of the left-over ingredients (pineapple), in lieu of dinner. Wish me luck….

October 19, 2007

Update From Memphis, #3

I have a few hours free before Shabbos, so I’ll tell you a little more about what’s going on here. As a side note, I did what will likely be my last bit of sightseeing in Memphis (The Mississippi River Museum and The Memphis Cotton Museum). I also took a few minutes to stop by the kosher aisles at the local Kroger - the major sponsor of the BBQ.

There were no BBQ related activities today, but I’ll elaborate more on what happened last night. (Again, when I get home, I’ll provide photos to make it all clear.) When registering for the BBQ, everyone had to submit an ingredient list that covered all the ingredients you need, for all your recipes. (The categories to compete in are brisket, ribs and BBQ beans, in case you forgot.) The $125 application fee covered the purchase of all your ingredients - minus the meat. Upon entering the shul social hall, each team’s supplies and ingredients were set out on tables. First order of business was to insure that all your ingredients were present. A community table contains some of the more common ingredients (spices, sauces, juices, etc.) and each team is expected to take from that to fulfill their needs. Any shortages or missing items are reported to a volunteer, and it’s on to meat selection.

Teams can pre-order as many briskets and rib racks as they want when they sign up. On orientation night, a team representative lines up at the outdoor, walk-in cooler, where they will get a chance to choose which briskets or ribs they want. As I said, meat isn’t included in the application fee, so at this point teams pay the shul for the meat they have chosen.

Cooking is not required on orientation night, but many teams do. The most common preparation that takes place is the marinating or dry-rubbing of meat. I threw together my dry-rub, covered my brisket and ribs with it, then sealed them in foil and put them back in the cooler, with a team-name tag.

I wasn’t expecting to do any cooking last night, but I got caught up in the frenzy. Unfortunately, the shul kitchen doesn’t expand when more teams apply to compete - and this year has the largest number of teams, ever. Fortunately, many people are working on tasks that don’t require cooking, so they can work out in the shul social hall. I put together some of the ingredients for my grill-glaze. I’ll combine the components tomorrow night and finish their cooking. Before signing up, I was concerned that I wouldn’t know the right-way to prepare/cook for the competition - not anymore. Every method was represented. Some people were pre-cooking their meat, so they could just put a char on it on the day of the event. Some were slathering meat in marinades or dry-rubbing (I was one of them) and leaving them raw. Whatever preparing was done, at the end of the night every team wrapped their product in foil and put it back in the cooler.

I get a lot of questions about the BBQ-beans category. Each team is given a large can of Bush’s Vegetarian Baked Beans. The trick is to improve the beans by adding things - spices, seasonings, fruits, vegetables, whatever. You’re just trying to offer the judges the best baked-beans they even tasted.

There’s so much more to discuss, but it will have to wait for my next posts. I’ll leave you with a question - I seem to be marking myself as a fanatic, by traveling from NY to Memphis, just to cook in a BBQ competition. Are there more nuts like me out there? Would you come out here to compete? Next year will be the 20th annual BBQ, nudge, nudge. Thanks to all my supporters out there and have a good Shabbos.

Update From Memphis

I wish I could post some pictures for you, but my laptop doesn’t have the software for photo-editing. I’ll work on it when I get home. Sorry.

Anyway, my first full day in Memphis has come to an end. I started my day with some sightseeing (Graceland, The Peabody Ducks, The Rock & Soul Museum and the Belz Museum of Asian & Judaic Art). At 6:00pm, there was a BBQ Orientation, followed by our first cooking session. Before I go on, I need to clarify that I am working this competition alone - unfortunately, Jabbett wasn’t able to make it. Let me also explain that working this competition alone is sheer lunacy. Especially on your first time competing. I am so overwhelmed. As long as we’re all clear on that. (I won’t start whining here - the BBQ staff read this ;-) )

By 9:30pm I had selected my meat, insured that I had all my ingredients, put my dry rub on my meat and stored it in the fridge, and done a small part of my food prep. I still have much work to do. I’ll go into more detail when this weekend is over - right now I need to catch some Z’s.

October 17, 2007

Greetings from Memphis!

The 19th-annual ASBEE/Kroger Kosher BBQ Competition takes place this Sunday, and I’m in Memphis to cover the action! I will be competing as well, so wish me luck. Stay tuned for updates….

September 21, 2007

The Best Kosher Steaks for Grilling

Neighbor and Kosher Blog reader Ari hosted a steak tasting at his home a couple weeks back. Here is his report.

We recently held a taste-testing of 4 high-end, USDA Prime kosher steaks available from Gordon & Alperin in Newton, MA. Unfortunately, Filet Mignon and other cuts from the rear of the cow are not available kosher in the United States (due to the difficulty of removing certain parts of the cow found in the hindquarters), so we tasted Center-Cut Ribeye steak ($32.99/lb., also called “eye of the prime,” the king of kosher steaks, available at a very royal price), Ribeye Cap steak ($19.99/lb., also known as the “tail of the prime”), Hangar steak ($19.99/lb., also known as “hanging tenderloin”), and filleted Blade steak ($16.99/lb.).

(I wanted to roll and tie individual portions of ribeye cap to make rolled ribeye cap steaks, but the quantity of meat we received wouldn’t allow it once cut into 14 pieces. Thus, instead we grilled the RC flat on the grill, and served it sliced.)

All meat was lightly seasoned with a pinch of salt and pepper on both sides. The seasoning was prepared by mixing 3 tablespoons of kosher salt with half a teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper. All meat was cooked to medium (about 150 degrees F), although the thinly cut blade steaks may have been accidentally ventured towards medium-well or well-done (one thin piece registered at 172 degrees F).

Taste-testing forms were provided to each guest, and 13 forms were received back. Participants were asked to rate each of the steaks from 1-5 in the following categories: tenderness, beefiness, saltiness, and appearance. Participants were also asked to provide an overall score for each steak on a scale of 0-10. Results are summarized below. Mean scores are reported first, followed by standard deviations.

TENDERNESS
Hangar: 4.08 / 0.49
RC: 3.69 / 0.75
Blade: 3.46 / 0.66
CCR: 3.85 / 0.90

BEEFINESS
Hangar: 3.69 / 0.75
RC: 3.23 / 0.83
Blade: 3.85 / 0.90
CCR: 4.76 / 0.43

SALTINESS
Hangar: 4.85 / 0.37
RC: 3.38 / 0.87
Blade: 2.31 / 0.63
CCR: 2.54 / 0.78

APPEARANCE
Hangar: 3.92 / 0.75
RC: 3.00 / 1.08
Blade: 4.31 / 0.48
CCR: 4.46 / 0.52

OVERALL
Hangar: 8.08 / 1.12
RC: 6.77 / 1.17
Blade: 6.92 / 1.44
CCR: 8.54 / 1.39

A few results stand out. The Hangar steak was universally regarded as the saltiest steak by far. This is probably due to the fact that it has many surface openings (due to a widely spaced grain) into which the salt used in the kashering process likely entered but did not exit. Thus, kosher Hangar steak should probably be cooked without any added salt. The remaining steaks had much more reasonable saltiness scores, more in-line with what a typical person would consider desirable.

Also, the CCR had the highest beefiness score by far (with high agreement). This is not surprising, given that the rib section typically produces the “beefiest” cuts. The other three cuts provided roughly similar beefiness scores as each other, well below the CCR. Surprisingly, the RC, which is also from the rib section, had the lowest beefiness score.

Somewhat surprisingly, the Hangar steak had a higher tenderness score than the pricey CCR (although the small difference might not be statistically significant, especially given the high deviation in the CCR tenderness score). Also surprising was the fact that the Blade steak had the lowest tenderness score, contrary to its official description. This may be due to the fact the Blade steak was overcooked a bit. In my previous experience, Blade steak has generally been recognized as extremely beefy and tender by my guests, so it is very important not to overcook it!

People seemed to prefer the appearance of the CCR and Blade steaks. I thought this category would provide very divergent resluts because appearance is such a subjective category, but with the exception of the RC, the standard deviations were on the low side.

Overall, people preferred the pricey CCR, followed by the Hangar steak. A signifcant drop before the 3rd place Blade steak and then the 4th place RC. However, the data was divergent. It should be noted that 5 of the 13 testers rated the CCR as a perfect 10, while another 5 testers gave it only a 7. However, only 1 tester gave the Hangar steak a perfect 10, while only 4 testers rated it as a 6 or 7.

The big surprise in this test was the relatively cheap yet highly-regarded Hangar steak. The similarly-priced RC did not fare nearly as well (although perhaps it would have come out better rolled). The cheaper Blade steak had moderate scores, but this may be due to overcooking. While the CCR scored the best, this was to be expected from the king of kosher steaks, and its exorbitant price will make it suitable for only the most special occasions.

August 20, 2007

The Road to Memphis ‘07

As Team KosherBlog prepares for the ASBEE/Kroger BBQ competition, I felt obligated to share this picture with you:
Mmmmmm.....Brisket
Let’s all practice our best Homer Simpson impression together - “Mmmm, Brisket” [drool, drool, drool]. That is the best looking brisket I have ever made.

August 2, 2007

Kosher BBQ Competition in Memphis

Oink Oink!
I just received my registration packet for the 19th Annual ASBEE/Kroger Kosher BBQ Contest & Festival in Memphis, Tennessee. If you plan on being in the Memphis area for the weekend of October 21st, 2007, come out and cheer on team Kosherblog! (For now that’s just me and Jabbett, so we’ll need all the support we can get!) Teams can compete for Best Brisket, Best Ribs and Best BBQ Beans.

If you’d like to enter a team of your own, here are the parts of the registration packet:

Do two northerners (I won’t call us Yankees, out of respect for Jabbett’s sports loyalties) stand a chance, cooking BBQ in one of the BBQ capitals of the country? Stay tuned, and find out…

May 3, 2007

R’ Heinemann Recap: Part 2

Here are the last of my notes from Rabbi Moshe Heinemann’s talk last night on cutting-edge issues in kashrut (part one here). Errors are mine, and consult your rabbi before applying any of this information to your own life.

FRIDGES
For a refrigerator to operate properly, it must occasionally remove any frost that has built up along its refrigeration coils. Until recently, fridges would activate a heater on a uniform cycle, a specific number of minutes every so many hours, to melt the frost. Of course, this is quite inefficient — why heat the coils if the fridge hasn’t been opened all day? Federal regulations have since been enacted to decrease appliances’ overall energy use, and fridge manufacturers have responded with more delicate heating algorithms. A new fridge today will measure the amount of time the compressor has run, and the number of times the door has been opened, before activating the heater.

Obviously, this has serious implications for Shabbat usage — it’s not just a matter of unscrewing the light bulb anymore. Since a refrigerator’s sensors are directly affected by opening the door and the ensuing change in temperature, it would be prohibited to access the fridge on Shabbat. You might ask how this differs from halacha’s view on a home’s heating and air conditioning. The short answer is that outside air introduced through a door or window diffuses rapidly and is thus indirect enough not to be a concern — what halacha calls a “koach sheni.”

So, along with your oven and stove, your next refrigerator may require a certified Sabbath mode to force it into 20th-century, heat-every-eight-minutes operation.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL
Propylene glycol is an industrial emulsifier, commonly used by soda manufacturers to keep a beverage’s coloring from separating out of solution and migrating to the bottom of the bottle. It has always been considered an unproblematic ingredient from a kashrut standpoint, since it’s a delicious petroleum product.

Fortunately, our friends at Dow Chemical have found a way to use glycerin to manufacture propylene glycol. Glycerin can be refined from petroleum, vegetable oil, or animal fat, the cheapest source being animal (since it’s the least desirable from a marketing standpoint). When glycerin producers compete for customers, they’ll often sell animal-based glycerin to undercut the next guy’s price. To assure that the propylene glycol which emerges at the end of this process is kosher, the glycerin must now be certified.

Moral of the story — when a product “all of a sudden” requires kosher supervision, when it never did before, forces like this are likely afoot.

AGA OVENS
Star-K has recently certified for Shabbos/Yom-Tov use ovens produced by AGA. AGA ranges are unique in that they maintain at all times very specific temperatures in each of their separate oven compartments, utilizing lots of cast iron and lots of insulation to keep the heat in. The four-chamber model, for example, contains baking, simmering, roasting, and warming ovens, plus boiling, simmering, and warming plates on top. There are no dials. Obviously, this makes Shabbat and holiday use extremely straightforward, and even alleviates bishul akum issues since the heat source is always lit. Don’t call up your local appliance retailer just yet — AGA ovens go for between $6,000 - $15,000.

BISHUL AKUM & CANNED FOOD
(This one’s complicated, so I apologize again.) The prohibition of bishul akum applies to “prestigious” foods only, or foods that could be “served on a king’s table.” Industrial canning of vegetables naturally involves the use of heat, so the question arises of whether a Jew must be involved in the production. Of course, one must first ascertain whether canned foods are “prestigious.” The Star-K contacted a chef at the White House and asked if they’d ever use canned vegetables, like asparagus. The chef answered with a resounding “no.” But was the chef’s problem that the food wasn’t fresh, or that it had a poor taste? If freshness was the main issue, then the fresh asparagus would have been fit to serve before canning, and bishul akum prohibitions might remain. So that route was inconclusive, and they were left with more questions: do we consider a food’s prestige where it’s made, where it’s marketed, or where it’s used? Returning to our Chinese mushroom scenario, we have mushrooms canned in China … for a US company … which is shipping them for sale in Israel. In the end, the Star-K is machmir on bishul akum in every locale along the chain.

CUT FRUIT & FISH
One can assume that varieties of cut fruit sold year-round in a supermarket or other similar setting are probably cut with a dedicated knife, leaving the fruit kosher. Seasonal fruits, like watermelon, though, may be cut with knives also used in other areas, so when purchasing a watermelon portion, one should trim a small amount off the edges to maintain kashrut. Fish, too, may be considered similarly. If, for example, a whole, kosher fish has had its head and tail removed in a non-kosher fish market, we may trim away the cut edges with a kosher a knife and use the fish. (Since scalers can only be used on fish with scales, i.e. kosher fish, there are no kashrut concerns about the scaler’s use on non-kosher fish.) Most interestingly, we may assume that kosher fish which is cleaned and filleted in an (unsupervised) industrial setting is being manipulated with dedicated equipment only used for such (kosher) fish. (To learn how this material might apply to your own fish-buying practices, consult your rabbi.)

May 2, 2007

R’ Heinemann Recap, Part 1

My first batch of notes from Rabbi Moshe Heinemann’s lecture earlier tonight at the Young Israel of Brookline, on cutting-edge issues in kashrut. Any errors in the information below are my fault. (Besides, R’ Heinemann insisted that these are solely his opinions, and the only halacha that matters is from one’s own rabbi.)

SHEMITAH
Shemitah begins next year, which presents problems in the US with produce of Israeli origin, grown on Jewish lands. We must be careful only to purchase Israeli produce with a heksher. A custom in Jerusalem is to eat fruits and vegetables grown on Arab lands during this time, and the Star-K does likewise, having made agreements with Israel’s largest vegetable companies to only sell Arab produce. This causes an interesting economic situation: the price of normally cheap Arab produce doubles, and the price of Jewish produce drops. Since there’s generally less demand for Arab produce, Arabs simply don’t grow the quantities necessary to fulfill this unusual Israeli demand — and will sometimes purchase now-cheap Jewish produce to fulfill it, negating the entire shemitah-respecting effort.

As such, the Star-K has contracted with a French satellite company to take pictures of Arab farms every five minutes to discover any illicit deliveries of Jewish produce. The image resolution is high enough that a truck’s license plate can be read, and appropriate action may be taken.

BUGS
Insect infestation in produce is more of a problem today, not because of new chumrot or overzealous rabbis, but because of bugs’ increasing pesticide resistance and the government’s prohibition against using the levels of pesticide needed to kill this century’s uber-bugs. With stronger bugs, and fewer chemicals in our arsenal, there are simply more insects appearing in our food.

In response, the Star-K is refining a “leaf camera” system that can distinguish between a bug’s protein and a leaf’s carbohydrates. When installed in an industrial setting, lettuce leaves with detectable protein content can be pushed aside. Unfortunately, they’re not 100% sure it’ll work, and it still isn’t fast enough to satisfy industrial demands.

ORGANIC MEAT
An organic meat company approached the Star-K for certification, thinking that a heksher would attract more customers. The Star-K informed the company that about 80% of kosher slaughters are problem-free, and ultimately there’s a yield of 33% glatt kosher in a normal meat processing environment. Given that organically-raised animals are purported to be healthier, they estimated that an organic yield might be as high as 60-80% glatt. Before the Star-K agreed, they recommended that they observe the company’s existing non-kosher operations, and simply check the animals after slaughter to see if they’d have been glatt. The results were dismal: only 3% of the company’s organic beeves would have been considered glatt. Since they were raised without antibiotics, their livers were overwhelmed by parasites.

TROPICAL OILS FROM ASIA
Tropical oils are popular additives in shelf-stable baked goods, since they’re solid at room temperature. These days, the cheapest source of tropical oils is Asia, where the stuff is shipped out in massive, massive quantities. Before the breads and cakes hit your bakery’s shelves, the kashrut challenges have begun: the whole supply chain presents significant hurdles. The ships have huge carrying tanks, which may at any time be filled with kosher or non-kosher oils (i.e. animal fat). Because these fats become solid at room temperature, they must be heated during transit to stay liquid. When the ships arrive in the US, they unload their cargo into special terminals with heated storage tanks. One hot-water heating system may service up to ten tanks. From the coasts, the oils are sent by rail and truck (both, again, in heated tanks) to factories across the country.

Dealing with the ships is especially difficult since they’re quite resistant to kashrut oversight, but the Star-K has a lot of experience handling the trucks. Federal law prohibits the use of one tanker for both edible and non-edible liquids, but one tanker could easily transport alternating batches of kosher and non-kosher products. So the tanks need to be kashered, fine, but the cabs? They, too, present a problem. Since the pump used to fill and empty the tank needs a power source, it’s part of the cab, and not the tank. That must be kashered, too. Cabs are frequently swapped in and out — breakdowns, new drivers, etc. — so detailed record-keeping and tracking is key.

CHINA
According to R’ Heinemann, there are unique challenges in working with Chinese companies seeking kosher certification, because of the acceptability of deception within their business culture. For example, any foods made with glycerin — an animal byproduct — will render the endeavor mutually unprofitable, so the Star-K routinely asks for that information upfront. The Chinese company will say no — and when the rabbi arrives, lo and behold, the facility has 200,000 gallons of glycerin, and the company doesn’t think it’s a big deal. He says they’re not unlike Jews: a chuppah is called for 4:30, but it starts at 5 — does the family apologize to their guests? No, we just expect that a Jewish event won’t be on time!

Bugs are a particularly pervasive problem in China. Consider mushrooms. In the US, most mushrooms are grown in Pennsylvania, in underground caves where the temperature and humidity are constant year round. In such consistent conditions, mushrooms grow bug-free. In China, mushrooms are grown above-ground, and the mushroom industry is very much a mom-and-pop operation. An individual harvester will sell an individual basket of mushrooms to a produce company, where it’s mixed in with everyone else’s small batches. In this environment, widespread inspection for bugs (and use of kosher cutting tools) is near impossible.

Coming up in part 2: Appliances, propylene glycol, bishul akum of canned goods, use of cut fruit and fish.

April 20, 2007

R’ Heinemann to speak in Brookline

The Kollel of Greater Boston is advertising a lecture by Rabbi Moshe Heinemann, rabbinical administrator of the Star-K, Wednesday, May 2, at 8:15pm. The event will take place at Young Israel of Brookline, 62 Green Street. The topic is “Cutting Edge Issues in Kashrus.”

The last time R’ Heinemann spoke in these parts was about five years ago. As I remember it, the topics he covered were kosher veal, Sabbath-mode appliances, and genetically-modified vegetables. He spent a great deal of time discussing the terrible conditions that veal calves are subjected to, but never ultimately passed judgment on the practice, just something about “Jewish housewives” preferring lighter-colored veal. He told a funny, if unfortunate, story about another “Jewish housewife” who, upon installing a Sabbath-mode oven, complemented the Star-K on finding a way to making cooking okay on Shabbat. (Note: It’s not okay.) And with regard to the vegetables … even when a tomato has turkey genes mixed in, if it looks like a tomato and it tastes like a tomato, then it’s still a pareve tomato.

2007 Boston Area Kosher Community Survey - Now Open!

Neil Rosenbaum and his Kosher Community Surveys LLC organization has just opened the second annual Boston Area Kosher Community Survey.

This survey is your chance to give your opinion about local kosher restaurants, grocery stores, and bakeries. The on-line survey is located at boston.kosher-community-surveys.com. A full report of the results will be distributed to the community.

Questions and comments should be directed to Neil at neil@kosher-community-surveys.com

December 1, 2006

Nextbook @ Kosherfest

Nextbook’s Sara Ivry offers this podcast on her trip to Kosherfest. I won’t say it’s trite, but here’s hoping she’s gotten over her Manischewitz fixation. (Read the memo.)

Honestly, I’d like to think that if I were covering an unfamiliar ethnic food show, I wouldn’t marginalize its participants by harping again and again on their stereotypical foods. “Who knew that latino food was more than chimichangas and extreme fajitas?” “I was excited to try General Gao’s latest creations, but I learned that Asians have actually been around for thousands of years, and actually make fresh, seasonally-inspired foods without MSG!”

Okay, maybe the podcast wasn’t that bad, but, yes, it’s a sore spot for me :) One need not invoke the ghosts of seders past (or Susie Fishbein’s mind-numbing minions) to show one’s readers that there is a mature kosher food industry, full of people who are serious about health, quality, and all-around good eating.

More encouraging is Linda Kulman’s contribution to Nextbook, one that installs chef/author Laura Frankel (of Chicago’s Shallots Bistro) alongside kosher cookbook pioneers Judith Cohen Montefiore and Edith Levy. Frankel’s new cookbook, “Jewish Cooking for All Seasons,” is chock-full of innovative, seasonally-inspired recipes suitable for the kosher home, absent the cliche ethnic food (and the cliche comments about it).