Kosher Blog

Pardes · Brooklyn, NY

As a long-time resident of Brooklyn, I’ve had the opportunity to see Kosher restaurants come and go. Some, like Kosher Delight or Jerusalem II Pizza have been around for decades. Kosher branches of Subway were a flash in the pan. There are the high-end places, like T Fusion Steakhouse and family-friendly eateries, like Carlos & Gabby’s. We have sushi-joints, Israeli grill-joints and a growing crop of schnitzel-joints. Across all those choices, there is much good food and a certain amount of commonality. What’s missing from the wide array of Kosher eateries in Brooklyn is excitement. That’s where Pardes comes in.

Pardes is the brainchild of Chef Moshe E. Wendel and his wife, Shana. Shana runs the front of the house and Chanita Bar-Chaim, a recent graduate of Brooklyn’s Center for Kosher Culinary Arts serves as sous-chef. Moshe distinguished himself with his time cooking at Mosaica, in Vauxhall, NJ, where the French/Morrocan cuisine garnered the attention of the Jewish and non-Jewish press. The executive staff of Kosherblog ate at Mosaica after Kosherfest 2009, and we were most impressed. Wendel was associated with Basil Pizza & Wine Bar’s opening, and the menu there shows some of his touches. Pardes is his first solo venture.

With a group of 4 diners, we were able to sample much of the menu – and Moshe sent us a few extra appetizers to make up for the time we waited to get seated:

Tuna Tartare, Smoked Paprika, Saffron, Lemon Confit, Croutons.

Home Made Bouqerones, Red Pepper, Caper Berries, Arugula, Lemon Dressing.

Spicy-Smokey Chicken “Wings”, Red Pepper-Saffron Vinaigrette (in pipette), Tomato Salad with Herbs, Preserved Lemon, Green Olive & Jalapeno.

Aroncini di Riso, Stuffed with Spicy Duck Ragout, Spicy Tomato-Fennel Coulis.

Beef Tartare, Oil Cured Black Olives, Lemon, Parsley Puree, Black Olive Oil, Garlic Toast.

Salt Cod “Crab Cake”, Herb Mayo, Avocado-Basil Salad.

Pizza of Braised Beef Cheeks, 24 hr Roasted Tomato, and Fresh Basil.

Steak Frites.

Pardes Burger, 12oz Ground Chuck, Avocado, Tomato, House Made Pickles, Beef Fry Truffle Mayo, Fries.

House Made Ketchup. Heinz is available upon request.

Duck Breast, Vanilla Barley, Charred Corn, Carob, Tarragon.

House Cured Smoked Brisket, Country Bread, Herbs D’ Provence Mustard, Dandelion, Pickled Red Onion, Fries.

Without exception, every dish was unbelievably delicious. The tartares were fresh and flavorful. The salad with boquerones won over my wife, who normally wouldn’t touch small fish. The “wings” were boned-out legs, skewered on a plastic-pipette containing a spicy red pepper-saffron vinaigrette which you squeezed into your mouth as you ate the chicken. This burst of flavor married well with the spices that the chicken was grilled in and was fun as well. I’ve never had beef-cheeks before, but Pardes’ “pizza” was a revelation. Tender meat with savory roasted tomatoes. The brisket sandwich was big enough to feed 3 of us. Every dish was full of vibrant flavors – something that is often lacking in Kosher eateries. Some of the flavor combinations were completely new to me, but nothing seemed out of place.

Pardes is off the beaten path, in Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, but I encourage you to come out and try it. You won’t be disappointed. The dining room seats 35, so reservations are strongly recommended. Street parking. Walking distance from many subway lines.

Pardes
497 Atlantic Avenue Brooklyn, NY, 11217

Mon – Thu: 12:00 pm – 11:00 pm
Sun : 12:00 pm – 11:00 pm