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An Interview with a BBQ Champion

By sweinberger
Published November, 2 2007 11:32 am

Continuing my follow-up coverage of the ASBEE BBQ, here’s a transcript of an e-mail interview I did with this Barney Abis - the pit-boss of The Meat Machers - this year’s ASBEE/BBQ Grand Champions. Barney and his teammate Steve Pepper came in first in the Ribs category.

Tell us about your team. How long have you been cooking together? Have you won before?

I have entered this contest the last 4 or 5 years. I do it for the fun of it. In fact, some years I have not even entered my meat into the judging. Too many friends coming by to nosh. One year I placed in beans, but I don’t remember if it was 1st or 2nd and I could never duplicate the recipe if I tried. A lot of improvising. My winning entry this year was ribs. This is my first time cooking with Steve Pepper. We have been friends since we were children. Since my partner from last year joined his son’s team, I asked Steve if he wanted to do the BBQ. The rest is now the stuff of legend. Incidentally, my partner from last year placed 2nd in ribs - I taught him everything he knows!

Describe your winning entry. How did you come up with the recipe?

Again, my recipe was improvised. Nothing written down and nothing measured. My method for beef ribs involves first scoring the back lengthwise and removing the membrane and then rubbing down with a dry rub, squeezing a little lemon over them and adding a little vinegar and sealing in a 2 gallon zip lock bag. This is done two or three days before the actual contest. This tenderizes the meat some. I then individually wrap each slab in aluminum foil and put on the BBQ grill for about 3 hours along with some water soaked hickory wood smoking on the coals, rotate them about every 30 to 45 minutes. When they are almost falling off of the bone I take them off of the grill, pitch the foil and fat, and rub them down with a rub that is primarily dark brown sugar with cumin, red pepper or chili powder, garlic powder, and whatever else looks interesting to throw in. The combination of sweet and spicy is good. I then put the ribs directly on the grill to glaze them. After only 5 or 10 minutes I take them off and slather some sauce on them. I use any decent commercial sauce and add the dry rub mentioned above to the sauce. This year we also added some honey. I then let the sauce cook on for a few minutes and they are ready to go. I have made them many times and have never done it the same way twice I am sure.

Does your team BBQ together throughout the year?

I don’t BBQ with friends during the year, however, I make the ribs on most of the traditional American holidays, July 4th, Labor Day, Memorial Day etc. I just enjoy cooking them out by the pool. My friends and mishpachah love these ribs as in Memphis we are in the land of treif and beef ribs are hard to come by. Beef ribs are more Texas style bbq. Memphis is definitely pork.

What does competing at the ASBEE BBQ mean to you?

Competing at the ASBEE means a couple of things to me. Camaraderie, fun, a few L’Chayims, and supporting our shul. It is nice because the entire Jewish community in Memphis comes together.

Any BBQ secrets, tips, advice?

My secret to bbq besides slow cooking is have fun, a few shots of single malt scotch and don’t take it too seriously.

5 comments so far (Post your own)
1.At 3:01 pm on November 2nd, 2007, Craig Winchell wrote:

BS”D

I’m sure they were lovely ribs, but here’s what I don’t get: “I then individually wrap each slab in aluminum foil and put on the BBQ grill for about 3 hours along with some water soaked hickory wood smoking on the coals, rotate them about every 30 to 45 minutes.” I understand the aluminum foil, and putting them on the grill to “stew in their own juices” for 3 hours, rather than doing it on indirect heat, which would not be quite as efficient in breaking down collagen due to lack of moisture saturation. But it sounds like a waste of hickory to me, as the smoke can’t get to the meat due to the foil. Maybe in Memphis, hickory is ubiquitous, but here in California, it costs money. Was it just for show a the comptetion, or did he think it performed a useful function, and if so, what? From the description, it sounds as f the ribs saw very little smoke, if any. Not complaining, just curious. I subscribe to the “barbecue as hot smoking” school.

2.At 4:32 pm on November 2nd, 2007, Howard wrote:

I’m assuming that the foil was covering the ribs because it wouldn’t be very modest for the ribs to be exposed to the smoke all naked-like.

3.At 10:28 pm on November 3rd, 2007, sweinberger wrote:

Large amouts of wood chips were available on the ‘community table’, so they were effectively free. After you paid a $125 entry-fee, of course.

4.At 11:52 am on November 4th, 2007, Barney the Meat Macher wrote:

To Craig, each team is given two portable grills. If you are cooking only one slab and one brisket then idirect heat is an option.I have many people coming by so I make 10 slabs of ribs. Only 3 of these will go directly on the grill. You have to stack them. I wrap them in foil for the tenderizing but also to eliminate constant flare ups from the fat dripping on the coals. The hickory chunks are good sized and water logged and take a while to start smoking.The foil is not airtight and some smoke probably permeates the cracks and crevices of the foil. When they come out of the foil there is still the remnants of the hickory smoking. So there is some direct exposure to smoke. Putting the chunks on at the end when you take out of foil would not give them time to smoke. Obviously not the perfect scenario but it still works. Indirect heat with direct exposure to hickory smoke is probably better. A meat macher must do what a meat macher must do given the tools he has to work with.

5.At 12:57 pm on November 4th, 2007, Craig Winchell wrote:

BS”D

Thanks Barney. Now that I see you did not wrap the meat tightly and make it airtight, I understand what you were trying to do, and evidently succeeded in doing.

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