I am truly sorry for dragging my feet so long before posting about our kosher experiences in Paris. In short, we had a fantastic time, and I can’t wait to go back, but hopefully with less rain and fewer student riots next time. We enjoyed one of our best dinners at Le Chateaubriand, tucked away on a dark side street in the 17th Arrondisement.
You’ll need a little luck finding Paris’s Le Chateaubriand — at night, rue de Tocqueville is very dark, and very quiet, and Le Chateaubriand is a small restaurant, with few exterior markings. Once we
entered, though, we were relieved to see their elegant, modern decor. We didn’t have a reservation, but we arrived early by local standards (7:30 pm). The staff didn’t speak English (and my wife’s umpteen pre-collegiate years of French hadn’t really kicked in yet) but they provided us a translated menu.
Brief cultural note! If you don’t know French, it helps immensely to ask, in French, if one speaks English, rather than using English off the bat. At Les Ailes, a Sephardi restaurant, we did so, and our waiter proceeded to regale us, in English, with tales of his travels across the US.
They started our meal with a delightful amuse bouche platter, which included olives, smoked almonds, mock crab sushi wrapped with rice paper, tuna mousse, and basil crostini. For a first course, we ordered pumpkin soup, which was served with a poached egg, and a smoked quail and cold duck salad dressed with a sweet sauce that complemented the fowl very well.
My wife’s main course was a large chicken breast rolled with duck pastrami, served with basmati rice and mushrooms. I enjoyed 3 perfectly cooked lamb chops in a savory sauce, served with roasted tomatoes and mashed potatoes.
For dessert, we had crepes Suzette — made table-side with candied orange peel — and molten chocolate cake topped with tangerine ice cream. A delightful ending to the one truly decadent meal during our stay. In all, it set us back 150 euro.
Another cultural note! Our guidebooks weren’t clear about the tipping practices in France, and the receipt didn’t make it clear if a service charge was added by default. A friend who lived in Paris for two years has since told me that a service charge is always factored in, and tipping a slight amount is nice to do when the service is excellent. (Locals or those with additional first-hand experience should feel free to leave a comment.)
Jeff, a Kosher Blog reader, was in Paris this past New Year’s Eve with his wife, and sent in this report of his meal at Le Chateaubriand:
Based on your recommendation, we went to Chateaubriand for New Year’s Eve. We figured it would be a prix fixe menu, but had no idea what we were in store for! We got there at 8:15 and were the only ones in the place. We were served Kir Royal and the various amuse bouche you described. We looked at the menu and there were the standard two appetizers, two entrees, two desserts, etc. We figured we had a choice of each. Well, out came an appetizer of foie gras and fruit chutney. Why didn’t they ask our preference? We soon found out, because later the other appetizer arrives, a duck salad. The menu wasn’t in English, so we mistakenly thought this was our entree and ate every delicious bite! We were wrong again, as after a long wait (about an hour or so), our first entree came out. Not sure what kind of fish it was, but it came served on a plate in a tin foil bag that we had to dismantle, with a nice creamy sauce and various winter vegetables. We soon figured out that they were making us wait so that every else would catch up, and the courses would be served all at once.
Next came a palate cleanser, a ball of ice citron vodka that was delicious and woke us up a bit (it was almost 11pm!). After another wait, we were served with a huge portion of veal that we couldn’t believe we had room left to eat. But we did! At midnight they passed out hats, noise makers and confetti, and we counted down. Then came the first dessert of coconut sorbet and some sort of hot apple pastry. After that was chocolate cake, and then finally the last course, coffee and petit fours.
I was pretty scared about how much the bill would be. Though we probably wouldn’t have agreed to pay this much if asked in advance, our four and a half hour meal came to 300 euro. We left at 12:45!
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