Kosher Blog

The Annual WSJ Kosher Wine Column

Today’s Wall Street Journal includes their annual, pre-Pesach review of kosher wines (link; subscription required). Their list of favorites provides a good range of what’s out there, which was their stated goal, but I am disappointed by the text of the article, which appears to merely be an edit on previous years’ columns. Rather than discussing the merits of available kosher wines or focusing on interesting regions or producers, Gaiter and Brecher have assumed the posture that this is their annual pitch in favor of kosher wines being considered real wine (”Next time you’re in a wine shop, even if you don’t keep kosher, you really should take a look.”), rather than pancake syrup (or however you prefer to describe the heavy malaga of the past). Indeed, if you look at the post discussing the 2004 column, you’ll find some of the same language. The pullout quote, while well-meaning I’m sure, just comes off as derisive after this many years: “Anyone who keeps kosher no longer has to settle for simple, sweet wines.” With a fair number of kosher wines receiving 90+ ratings year after year, some being described by Robert Parker as among his favorite wines overall, do we need to keep referring back to the swill of yore?

In any case, the wines that they single out are a mix of the familiar (Rashi Moscato d’Asti) and interesting (Goose Bay Pinot Noir). Living in NYC, I had the pleasure of attending the Jewish Center’s Kosher Wine Extravaganza, organized by Gotham Wines & Liquors, last week and will be providing comments on some additional wines in the coming days, but for now I will list the WSJ picks and comment where I can. The list is ordered “from white to red and from lighter to heavier.”

• Rashi Moscato d’Asti 2005 (Italy): G&B noted that “It’s hard to go wrong with any Moscato d’Asti as an aperitif or after-dinner wine,” and toss in the Bartenura version for the reader’s consideration. This is true and when I make fun of “the blue bottle” (or now the “green bottle” in Rashi’s case) it is only at the prevalent tendency to drink this dessert wine as a table wine. Of course, the bottom line with wine is to drink what you enjoy, but I expect that many would enjoy the Moscato d’Asti more in its intended role.
• Abarbanel Vin d’Alsace Gewurtztraminer 2004 (France): I am not usually a big fan of Gewurtz and haven’t tried this one, but G&B are and note that “this is an excellent example, clean and spicy, with a nose of roses and tastse of white pepper.” This was their favorite white of the tasting.
• Ramon Cardova Rioja Blanco 2003 (Spain): I have not tried this one, but I have enjoyed Ramon Cardova’s red rioja (as did G&B “in this tasting and in the past”). Knowing their audience, they describe this as “A white that could stand up to brisket.” I look forward to testing that theory.
• Dalton Rose 2005 (Israel): I have not tried this wine, but I am generally a fan of Dalton’s wines. They have been a consistently good producer for a number of years. I’ll have more to say about Dalton wines when I write about the Extravaganza. G&B describe this as “A good example of the increasing number of good roses available from all over the world,” so if rose is your thing, this is probably a safe bet.
• Dalton Barbera “Oak Aged” (Upper Galilee) 2004 (Israel): Again, I like Dalton wines. I did not get a chance to taste this at the Extravaganza, but a number of people were talking about it very favorably.
• Goose Bay Pinot Noir (East Coast) 2005 (New Zealand): G&B found this to be the best red of the tasting, and also like Goose Bay’s 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. I honestly don’t recall if I have had this wine before, so I’ll reserve judgment and leave you with G&B’s review: “Wine-lovers are excited about New Zealand’s Pinot Noir and this is a good one, with a haunting nose of earth, pepper and a little funk and a silky, fruity taste.”
• Teperberg Family Estate Meritage (Judean Hills) 2005 (Israel): Teperberg is only recently available in the States and I had the pleasure of tasting a few of their wines last week, including the meritage. I don’t have my notes from the tasting at the moment, so I’ll mostly rely on the WSJ review, with which I agree, but I recall the meritage as being a nice, full bodied wine that would like open up well if given some time to decant, even if in the bottle. Teperberg provides an interesting addition to what is, in my opinion, a strong crowd of quality Israeli wineries. G&B: “Lovely, Bordeaux-like nose, crisp and structured. Earthy, with good fruit and a long finish. Could age nicely. Good with brisket.”
• Bartenura Nebbiolo (Colline Navaresi) 2004 (Italy): I think I’ve had this wine in the past and consider it one of the more serious Bartenura wines that I’ve tried. It is a good solid red for anyone looking for a big Italian wine. G&B: “Interesting and tight, with intense, earthy fruit and the smell of blue flowers and rich earth. Fragrant. Good with all Italian food.”

In addition to their favorites list, I want to mention one of the few wines that they name in the text of the article, which I was able to try at the tasting last weekend. The Barkan Pinotage (Israel) is a relatively new and interesting addition. Pinotage is typically associated with South Africa and I have, for the most part, been disappointed with the South African wines that I’ve tasted. I found the Barkan Pinotage, though, to be good and certainly, as G&B suggest, worth a try. It carries a somewhat different profile than the pinot that makes up part of its ancestry and, in my opinion, makes a good addition to your repertoire of reds.