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Archive for March, 2007

March 30, 2007

Matzah Sculptures?

First Manischewitz brought us the Kosher Cook-Off. Now it’s a Matzah Sculpture Contest! Do they use Charoset to glue together the pieces?

March 28, 2007

Another reason to buy machine-made shmurah matzah

Associated Press, via Forbes.com: NY Bus Converted Into Oven for Matzos

UPDATE: Video coverage at WCBS-TV New York. (No, folks, it’s not from Comedy Central.)

Forget Quinoa — Now They’re Coming For Our Pot

I’m afraid this doesn’t appear to be Purim Torah.

One thing confuses me about the article. The statement that
“the rabbinic injunctions banning hemp were never adopted by Sephardic Jews” suggests that pot is considered kitniyot, not chametz. The Ashkenazi prohibition of kitniyot applies only to eating, not to ownership or “benefit,” yet Michelle Levine, the Green Leaf Party spokesperson interviewed in the article, says that “if you have it in your house you should get rid of it.” True, Levine is not a rabbi, and her halakhic advice should probably taken with a grain of . . . ahem . . . salt. But I’m a bit concerned about the statement about hemp in “health oils.” Are we talking food here, or “nutritional supplements,” or cosmetics? Where did the AP get the idea that this was an issue? I hope it wasn’t from a rabbi who thinks that you can’t use kitniyot on your skin.

(Clarification: In anticipation of certain comments, I will state the obvious: it is probably against halakhah to own or smoke marijuana in places where it is illegal, whether you are Ashkenazi or Sephardi. That includes Israel, at least for the time being.)

[UPDATE: Here is a more detailed Jerusalem Post article.]

March 27, 2007

Latest Battle in the Kitniyot War

Last year, I posted about a New York Times article that discussed, among other things, the recent trend of non-Orthodox rabbis permitting the consumption of kitniyot (legumes, etc.) on Passover. This year, Gil student discusses a similar ruling (for Israelis) by an Orthodox rabbi. Rabbi Student objects to the ruling because ignores the precedent set by Ashkenazim in Israel over the past two centuries. This objection seems reasonable to me. I only wish that more Jews would consider precedent before introducing new chumrot (stringencies) as well.

*DH reports no new news on the quinoa front this year.

(Cross-Posted to Apikorsus)

What to really expect at your first Passover seder

Jane Moritz, owner of the Challah Connection, published an article on a wire service about attending a Passover seder for the first time — what to expect, what to do, what some of the traditions are. Unfortunately, it’s completely geared toward sedarim held in less-observant households.

When it comes to our seder, we by no means provide the most comprehensive or punctilious service in town — but even in our rather modern household, much of Ms. Moritz’s advice should be disregarded.

And so, I provide corrections for the frum home, or “What to really expect at your first Passover seder.”

Start Times
This year, expect the first night’s seder to begin after 7PM, the second night’s after 8PM, exact time depending on when your host gets back from evening services. Don’t walk in with any expectation of when it will conclude, aside from “before the morning prayers” — don’t worry, you’ll understand that reference soon. Ahead of time, it’s perfectly okay to ask your host how long it usually takes.

The Haggadah
Sedarim and the haggadot used therein vary widely. Your seder may be conducted entirely from the Hebrew text, with a mix of Hebrew and English, or mostly English with some important Hebrew sections thrown in for authenticity. Many sedarim include lengthy discussions between the major sections, when participants are encouraged to share their own interpretations or those printed within the haggadah text. Luckily, at an American seder, your haggadah will nearly always contain a translation that you can use to follow along while any Hebrew is recited. Don’t feel embarrassed if you’re lost or need some help — even the more seasoned Jews among us struggle with this once-a-year ritual.

Counting down to the food
By this point in Jewish history, it’s pretty cliche to complain about the number of pages left until the festive meal. The rest of the year, you, like me, probably eat like an animal, chomping down a Hot Pocket (or rabbinically-approved alternative) whenever and wherever the urge strikes. Why is this night different from all other nights? You’ll actually be hungry by the time the brisket rolls out — so smile and be glad to have the opportunity to eat like a mensch.

The Four Questions
By all means, brush up on the Jewish trivia, but you needn’t “practice” the Four Questions. The youngest at the table (a child, typically) does the formal recitation, so instead, think up a couple incisive questions of your own to ask of your fellow participants.

What to bring
Trust me — it is a great honor for your host to have you in attendance, and he certainly will not be upset if you show up with nothing but an open mind and empty stomach (to use the parlance of our times). Certainly, if you’re unfamiliar with the Jewish dietary laws, err on the side of caution — the house you’re visiting has been scrubbed, scoured, singed, and soaked for at least a week already, and you don’t want to stumble in with any unkosher or leavened items. Maybe you have a religious coworker at the office? The guy with the beanie, or the woman who comes in with perfectly coiffed hair, often with headband, in different colors and styles each day of the week — ask if they can recommend an appropriate gift and where to purchase it. You may even want to show the purchased item to him/her to confirm its permissibility. People get pretty touchy about this Passover stuff.

But if your host says don’t bring anything — don’t bring anything. It’s okay!

March 26, 2007

Kosher Restaurants and Health Codes

Rabbi Josh Yuter investigates.

March 23, 2007

The Annual WSJ Kosher Wine Column

Today’s Wall Street Journal includes their annual, pre-Pesach review of kosher wines (link; subscription required). Their list of favorites provides a good range of what’s out there, which was their stated goal, but I am disappointed by the text of the article, which appears to merely be an edit on previous years’ columns. Rather than discussing the merits of available kosher wines or focusing on interesting regions or producers, Gaiter and Brecher have assumed the posture that this is their annual pitch in favor of kosher wines being considered real wine (”Next time you’re in a wine shop, even if you don’t keep kosher, you really should take a look.”), rather than pancake syrup (or however you prefer to describe the heavy malaga of the past). Indeed, if you look at the post discussing the 2004 column, you’ll find some of the same language. The pullout quote, while well-meaning I’m sure, just comes off as derisive after this many years: “Anyone who keeps kosher no longer has to settle for simple, sweet wines.” With a fair number of kosher wines receiving 90+ ratings year after year, some being described by Robert Parker as among his favorite wines overall, do we need to keep referring back to the swill of yore?

In any case, the wines that they single out are a mix of the familiar (Rashi Moscato d’Asti) and interesting (Goose Bay Pinot Noir). Living in NYC, I had the pleasure of attending the Jewish Center’s Kosher Wine Extravaganza, organized by Gotham Wines & Liquors, last week and will be providing comments on some additional wines in the coming days, but for now I will list the WSJ picks and comment where I can. The list is ordered “from white to red and from lighter to heavier.”

  • Rashi Moscato d’Asti 2005 (Italy): G&B noted that “It’s hard to go wrong with any Moscato d’Asti as an aperitif or after-dinner wine,” and toss in the Bartenura version for the reader’s consideration. This is true and when I make fun of “the blue bottle” (or now the “green bottle” in Rashi’s case) it is only at the prevalent tendency to drink this dessert wine as a table wine. Of course, the bottom line with wine is to drink what you enjoy, but I expect that many would enjoy the Moscato d’Asti more in its intended role.
  • Abarbanel Vin d’Alsace Gewurtztraminer 2004 (France): I am not usually a big fan of Gewurtz and haven’t tried this one, but G&B are and note that “this is an excellent example, clean and spicy, with a nose of roses and tastse of white pepper.” This was their favorite white of the tasting.
  • Ramon Cardova Rioja Blanco 2003 (Spain): I have not tried this one, but I have enjoyed Ramon Cardova’s red rioja (as did G&B “in this tasting and in the past”). Knowing their audience, they describe this as “A white that could stand up to brisket.” I look forward to testing that theory.
  • Dalton Rose 2005 (Israel): I have not tried this wine, but I am generally a fan of Dalton’s wines. They have been a consistently good producer for a number of years. I’ll have more to say about Dalton wines when I write about the Extravaganza. G&B describe this as “A good example of the increasing number of good roses available from all over the world,” so if rose is your thing, this is probably a safe bet.
  • Dalton Barbera “Oak Aged” (Upper Galilee) 2004 (Israel): Again, I like Dalton wines. I did not get a chance to taste this at the Extravaganza, but a number of people were talking about it very favorably.
  • Goose Bay Pinot Noir (East Coast) 2005 (New Zealand): G&B found this to be the best red of the tasting, and also like Goose Bay’s 2005 Sauvignon Blanc. I honestly don’t recall if I have had this wine before, so I’ll reserve judgment and leave you with G&B’s review: “Wine-lovers are excited about New Zealand’s Pinot Noir and this is a good one, with a haunting nose of earth, pepper and a little funk and a silky, fruity taste.”
  • Teperberg Family Estate Meritage (Judean Hills) 2005 (Israel): Teperberg is only recently available in the States and I had the pleasure of tasting a few of their wines last week, including the meritage. I don’t have my notes from the tasting at the moment, so I’ll mostly rely on the WSJ review, with which I agree, but I recall the meritage as being a nice, full bodied wine that would like open up well if given some time to decant, even if in the bottle. Teperberg provides an interesting addition to what is, in my opinion, a strong crowd of quality Israeli wineries. G&B: “Lovely, Bordeaux-like nose, crisp and structured. Earthy, with good fruit and a long finish. Could age nicely. Good with brisket.”
  • Bartenura Nebbiolo (Colline Navaresi) 2004 (Italy): I think I’ve had this wine in the past and consider it one of the more serious Bartenura wines that I’ve tried. It is a good solid red for anyone looking for a big Italian wine. G&B: “Interesting and tight, with intense, earthy fruit and the smell of blue flowers and rich earth. Fragrant. Good with all Italian food.”

In addition to their favorites list, I want to mention one of the few wines that they name in the text of the article, which I was able to try at the tasting last weekend. The Barkan Pinotage (Israel) is a relatively new and interesting addition. Pinotage is typically associated with South Africa and I have, for the most part, been disappointed with the South African wines that I’ve tasted. I found the Barkan Pinotage, though, to be good and certainly, as G&B suggest, worth a try. It carries a somewhat different profile than the pinot that makes up part of its ancestry and, in my opinion, makes a good addition to your repertoire of reds.

March 21, 2007

New Trends in Passover Cheese

Nearly all kosher wines are also kosher for Passover, in large part due to the injunction to consume it in quadruplicate, but cheese, its eons-old sidekick, has never gotten much respect. That’s all changed this year, as evidenced in both local and virtual dairy cases, with reliably-certified cheeses from France, Italy, Denmark, and Vermont joining the traditional kosher options.

Wide variety of kosher for Passover cheeses

Several bars of Cabot medium-sharp cheddar arrived by UPS today, proudly brandishing an OU hologram. Brookline’s largest kosher market, the Butcherie, has a few French varieties in stock, including Makabi-brand Camembert and a soft, mold-ripened, goat- and cow-milk cheese called Le Pavé. I passed over the tiny two-dollar morsels of blue cheese, in favor of the pungent wedges of Kirkeby Danablu. As usual, they also had the standard Miller’s and Haolam cheeses, the blocks of which actually aren’t bad. We’ve been enjoying those baby Goudas and Muensters for a few years now, and the cholov yisroel Haolam Monterrey Jack is actually pretty decent, absent any alternatives.

In nearby Newton, Centre Market is carrying a large selection of French and Italian cheeses, including honest to goodness wedges of Provolone and Grana Padano (a close cousin of Parmigiano Reggiano) and whole wheels of French blue and Tomme — not to mention the finest prime meats in town.

Online options are also abundant this year — Cabot sells the OU cheddar exclusive at their website, and KosherItalia.com has 31 Passover-friendly products. In fact, they’ve just announced the arrival of both fresh cow mozzarella and fresh buffalo mozzarella, made in Italy on March 11 in preparation for the holiday.

With the simple addition of petite matzah crackers, a variety of jams and chutneys, some sliced vine-ripened tomatoes, and several bottles of fine wine, you’re ready to have a swanky — and fully pesadik — wine & cheese party.

I’ve often remarked that any holiday on which you can have steak and French fries every night isn’t really such a hardship. A well-stocked cheese drawer is yet another reason to believe that Passover could actually be a lot of fun.

March 20, 2007

Purim Recipes and Stuff

purim_seuda

It has occured to me that I should perhaps post my real Purim recipes before, say, Pesach. Above is a picture of the food at our vegetarian, buffet-style Purim Seudah. (The drinks and desserts were at other tables.)

On the menu:

Challah Rolls: From my usual challah recipe, which I’ll share some time, bli neder.

“Asian” Orzo Salad: Based on this recipe, from Sadie’s Luncheonette. I used tofu and halved the vegetable oil, compensating with extra soy and teriyaki sauce. You can see other changes I’ve made to the recipe in the comments on Sadie’s post. (By now, it’s pretty far removed from the original Paula Dean version.)

Bow Tie and Broccoli Salad: This is a recipe that I learned from my friend and former roommate, Jill. It consists of bowtie noodles, steamed broccoli, mayonnaise, golden raisins, sunflower seeds, and sesame seeds. The raisins, sunflower seeds and sesame seeds are sauteed in sesame oil until the raisins are plump and the sesame seeds are golden, and then everything is mixed together. I don’t bother to be consistent with the proportions.

Lentil Salad: Based loosely on this recipe from Alanna of A Veggie Venture. Alanna lowered the olive oil to vinegar ratio in her dressing from more than 3:1 to 1:2; I stuck with 1:1 and added some fresh lemon juice. I used the same veggies as Alanna, minus the radishes and chives and with the addition of sliced green olives.

Chickpeas with Charmoula Vinaigrette: There is a custom to eat chickpeas on Purim that dates back to the Middle Ages, according to Gil Marks. The practice is based on the midrash that Esther kept kosher while in Ahashuerus’s palace by eating only legumes and seeds. We tried a new chickpea recipe this year, from Myra Kornfeld’s The Healthy Hedonist. (I made some adjustments, since I was in a hurry, but it still came out great.) Here’s the recipe:

1 1/2 teaspoons whole cumin seeds [I used a reduced quantity of ground cumin]
6 tablespoons fresh lemon juice [from about 1 large lemon]
4 garlic cloves
1 1/2 teaspoons paprika
3/4 cup fresh parsley
1/2 cup fresh cilantro
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3 cups cooked chickpeas or 2 15-oz cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed [I used canned]
3 tablesppons extra-virgin olive oil

If using whole cumin seeds, toast them in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-low heat for about 2 minutes, or until fragrant, then grind with a mortar and pestle or spice grinder. [Obviously, I skipped this step.]

Now, throw everything in a food processor, beginning with the garlic and herbs, followed by the cumin, paprika, salt, and pepper, and ending with the liquid ingredients. Process well, taste for seasoning, and pour over chickpeas.

All right, so that last step wasn’t quite in accordance with the book, but it works perfectly well.

And now for my favorite new recipe of the holiday: Bourbon Ice Cream!

burbon_ice_cream

I got the recipe from CDKitchen, though I’ve seen nearly identical ones all over the internet. The main distinguishing feature of this version is that it uses 1/2 cup bourbon per gallon rather than 1/4 cup. (That’s about 10% ABV, I think, so it’s not for children, pregnant women, etc.)

And as a bonus, DH making kiddush:

DH

Until next year. . .

(Cross-posted to Apikorsus)

March 18, 2007

Passover gasoline? Don’t be fooled!

I have a couple little Google Alerts set up to inform me of kosher-related news articles and blog entries, and this posting showed up today, about “kosher for Passover,” ethanol-free gasoline. For half a moment, I was seriously disturbed, then a quick Internet search brought up absolutely no authoritative links to the “Bergen County Jewish Times.” It looks like a few bloggers were tricked by this seasonal humor from Bangitout.com, but luckily Rabbi Mark Ankcorn sets the record straight for any remaining doubters.

March 15, 2007

Beacon Kosher owner passes tragically

Some tragic news for Boston-area glatt-kosher community: Moshe Cohen, the young owner of Brookline’s Beacon Kosher, passed away suddenly early this morning. He is survived by his wife and several children.

Beacon Kosher, Brookline, MA

More details at TheYeshivaWorld.com

March 12, 2007

Lamb & Barley Soup

When my bulk meat man delivered a 10-lb. pack of stew lamb, I knew it would be a great excuse to find (and then perfect) a good soup recipe. I reviewed my usual recipe sources for a good starting point, but nothing I found was what I had in mind — a simple, traditional recipe that highlighted the flavor of the lamb. I’ve made three batches so far, and the resulting recipe is nicely balanced and consistently reproducible.

It’s also great for making in bulk, freezing, and then serving as needed. For example, to serve for Shabbat, prepare the soup until just before adding the barley, then refrigerate or freeze. Before sunset on Friday, bring the soup back to a simmer, then add the barley. Let it simmer gently, on a warming tray or in a crock pot, until you serve. Either you’ll have nice, toothsome barley, or the barley will have broken down more and thickened the soup into a tasty stew.

Read the rest of this entry »

March 4, 2007

Purim Rum Cake

I’ve seen a few versions of this recipe. This is my adaptation:

Ingredients:
1 or 2 qts. rum
1 cup butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup dried fruit
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tbs. lemon juice
1/4 cup chopped nuts

Directions:

Before you start, sample the rum to check for quality.

Select a large mixing bowl, measuring cup, etc. Check the rum again. It must be of the highest quality.

With an electric mixer, beat butter in large fluffy bowl. Add 1 seaspoon of thugar and beat again. Meanshile, it’s important to make sure the rum is still good. Try another cup.

Open the second quart of rum if necessary. Add 1 arge leggs, 2 cups of fried druits and beat till high.

If the druits get stuck in the beats, just pru it loose with a drewscriver. Sample the rum again for cinscistincy.

Next, add 3 cups of salt and or pepper (it really doesn’t matter which). Sample the wum again.

Sift 1 pint of lemon goose, add 1 bablespoon of brown thugar, of whatever color yoo can find. Mix well. Grease oven, turn cake pan to 350 greeds.

Nyow, pour the whole mess sinto the boven and ake. Check the crum again and bo to ged.

Cross-posted to Apikorsus.