Before going kosher, I never really had access to a butcher. The supermarket was our only source of meat, and it was already portioned and wrapped by the time I got to it. So we enjoyed plenty of ground beef, lamb chops, family-pack filets mignon from Costco, pork chops, chicken breasts, rotisserie chickens, and the occasional pot roast or roast beef. All delicious, don’t get me wrong, but rarely off the beaten path. When you’re kosher, though, you’re suddenly limited, not just to certain animals, but only to the front quarters — and then how many rib steaks can you really eat?

Well, the answer is “a lot,” but that’s not my point. There’s a wide array of other meat cuts to experience, most all of which are easier on the wallet. We’ve been together, you and I, for a few such experiences so far — hangar steaks, oven-smoked ribs — and I’ve developed two more loves in the past year: short ribs and skirt steaks. Slow cooked with aromatic vegetables, herbs, and plenty of red wine, short ribs emerge fork-tender and incredibly juicy — and at an economical price. Now that winter’s (mostly) over, it’s grilling season, and skirt steaks are king in my kitchen. They’ve got great beefy flavor, just the right amount of chew, and they cook to medium rare in no time since they’re thin.

Take this already tasty cut to a sublime level with the following espresso-chile rub. It’s courtesy of Bobby Flay — hardly my favorite TV chef — but he got it right with this one. Rub it all over your steaks and grill to your preferred doneness. This recipe is sufficient for six skirt steaks, and feel free to experiment with different combinations of chile powder, using ancho as your base.

ESPRESSO-CHILE RUB
1/4 cup ancho chile powder
1/4 cup finely ground espresso or instant espresso powder
2 Tbsp. Spanish paprika
2 Tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 Tbsp. dry mustard
1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 Tbsp. ground black pepper
1 Tbsp. ground coriander
1 Tbsp. dried oregano
2 tsp. ground ginger
2 tsp. chile de arbol powder

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and transfer to a container with a tight fitting lid. Can be made well in advance and stored in a cool, dark place.