Kosher Blog

WSJ Pesach Wines 2005

As Pesach approaches, it is time for newspaper food and wine sections to give their annual nod to kosher kulture. The April 8, 2005 edition of the Wall Street Journal includes their reviews and discussion for this year. Rather than canvassing the world of kosher wine, this year Gaiter & Brecher chose instead “to focus solely on the world’s greatest grapes - Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.”

The narrative portion of the article discusses kosher wine generally and their tasting process for these wines, but also has an interesting note on the exotic tasting menu and pairing that the authors enjoyed at Mike’s Bistro in Manhattan. I have never been to Mike’s, but have now put it on my list of places to check out in NYC.

Anyway, the chardonnay’s that made the cut are, interestingly, all Israeli: Very Good (best of tasting)- Barkan Wine Cellars ‘Reserve’ 2002 ($15); Very Good/Good (best value)- Golan (Golan Heights Winery) 2002 ($12.99); Good-Yarden (GHW) 2002 ($18). Of these, I am most familiar with the Yarden and agree with the review, which describes the wine as “big and rich” and notes that it is for those who “like oaky wines.” The Yarden chardonnay is a thoroughly enjoyable wine and it will well-complement your Shabbat chicken, seder turkey, or any weekday fish.

The field of Good or better CabSav was larger, yielding six picks with solid geographical diversity: two Israeli wines, two American, one Australian, and one French. Yarden’s 2000 Galilee CabSav won out, receiving a “Very Good/Delicious” rating and “best tasting” note. Priced at $26, the Yarden was less expensive but better reviewed than the two Herzog “Special Edition” bottles that made the list, both from the U.S.: Warnecke Vineyard Chalk Hill 2000 at $60, and Alexander Valley 2000 at $33.

I look forward to the NY Times kosher wine article, which I expect in this week’s Dining section on Wednesday. Those who would like the full text of the WSJ article should email me and we’ll figure something out.