Best Surreptitious Use of Turkey Meat
Shawarma
Rami’s
324 Harvard Street
Brookline, MA 02446
617-738-3577
Outside of the massive population centers which can support a wealth of highly-targeted ethnic eateries, the best kosher restaurants are the ones which transcend or outright obscure their religious peculiarities and sell themselves to the general public simply as quality eateries. For Boston’s premier kosher middle-eastern cafe and, as we’ll see, its signature rotating entree, though, the challenge is made threefold.
First, Rami’s was opened by an Israeli. Having traveled several times to the nascent Jewish state, I’ve experienced first-hand the blunt, no-nonsense, live-for-today attitudes of Israel’s prickly-on-the-outside and sweet-on-the-inside citizenry. Such a characteristic does not always bode well for sabra restaurateurs; Israeli wait-service often feels like an afterthought. But, at Rami’s, they strike a good balance. During a busy lunch hour, they run the cramped shop with exacting precision. (”We’re here to work; we’re not here to play!” I once overheard being said to a hesitant customer.) At calmer moments, they’re happy to put on a little music and shoot the breeze.
Second, Israel does not have a monopoly on fine middle-eastern food. All of her Arab neighbors offer up delicious meat and chickpea combinations, which means competition geopolitically… and locally. Tiny Rami’s has stood the test of time, seeing neighboring kosher eateries come and go, and surviving despite constant threat from nearby non-kosher shawarma “kings” and other, lesser vassals of falafeldom.
Third, Rami’s is glatt kosher. For the uninitiated, glatt is Yiddish for “smooth,” meaning no tolerance for even minor imperfections in the animals slated for kosher consumption. If you think that level of detail could be expensive, you’re right. Kosher mammalian meat can cost several times more than standard meat, causing typically higher prices at kosher restaurants.
So, while the middle-eastern delight known as “shawarma” is traditionally prepared on a vertical rotisserie loaded with stacked slices of lamb, the budget-minded restaurateur instead uses similarly spiced and cooked slices of turkey. Unless advertised outright, however, Rami’s surreptitious selection of less-expensive turkey over other meats would go completely unnoticed.
Expertly cooked so the meat chunks remain juicy but slightly crisp at the edges, stuffed into the softest pita this side of Jerusalem, covered with freshly chopped veggies, and slathered with sauces — ranging from hot, green s’chug, to smooth, garlicky hummus, to sesame-laden t’china, to the mysteriously spicy orange amba — the shawarma at Rami’s is a phenomenon to behold. Religious or not, you’ll find that the thrill of delicious shawarma grease dripping down your arm as you try to overcome your burgeoning sandwich is a spiritual experience.
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