Kosher Blog

Mosaica · Vauxhall, NJ

In the last year, my colleagues have managed to discover some great food in our office environs in Boston and Cambridge: from Vietnamese sandwiches in a Chinatown dating service office, to chickpea fritters in Kendall Square’s dirt-cheap food trucks, to the freshest $7 vegan lunch at the Buddhist center in Central Square.

Having been witness to great food in offbeat places, I had no qualms with the unconventional location of Mosaica, tucked into the ubiquitously suburban Millburn Mall in Vauxhall, New Jersey. Once inside, the Staples and Walgreens stores fade away, and you feel as if you’ve entered owner Michelle Toledano’s personal dining room. His decor is comfortable but classy, the 40-person-capacity room cozy and quiet.

It’s a fitting backdrop for chef Moses Wendel’s cuisine: each dish possessing a Moroccan soul but taken to a stylish level with ample French influence. We were given a few moments to review their menu before it was spirited away and the tasting menu experience began.

We were first presented with a lentil soup, featuring a perfectly hard-cooked egg. I powered through the overly exuberant cilantro and enjoyed the soup; it was well spiced, but tame. Personally, I would have appreciated some kick — hot sauce served on the side for adventurous diners would be welcome.

Lentil Soup

Our fish course was unexpectedly delightful: fresh sardines, dusted with fennel, and served atop a salad of roasted tomatoes, eggplant, and basil. The accompanying sauce paired well, but we were at a loss to identify its contents.

Fresh Sardines

Next, individual tagine dishes appeared, and the lids came off to reveal not a braised preparation, but instead crispy sweetbreads, light and juicy, with an equally crisp salad of celeriac, shaved fennel, tomato, and pine nuts.

Crispy Sweetbreads

Our appetites thoroughly whetted, we ventured into duck territory. A slice of perfectly seared duck breast (crisp skin, rare meat) accompanied roasted figs, a silky arak-infused sauce, almond-potato puree and olive tapenade. The intellectual stimulation of these highly disparate flavors gave way to a giddy emotional response once I combined them into harmonious mouthfuls– rich fat complementing licorice and almonds, sweet figs complementing olives. A consummate professional, I resisted licking my plate.

Seared Duck Breast

To conclude the savory courses, our group of three was presented with lamb tagine, served family style in a roasted pumpkin alongside a dish of spiced couscous. By this point, I futilely wished the lentil soup had been much smaller; I could manage only a small portion of this exquisite lamb, braised slowly with prunes, Moroccan spices, sunchokes, and pistachios. (With the experience still fresh in my memory, I prepared Gourmet Magazine’s take on the dish a week later to satisfy my heightened desire.) Rest assured, my companions polished off what I couldn’t.

Lamb Tagine

Fortunately, there’s a separate compartment for dessert. The New Jersey Star-Ledger reports that Chef Wendel was previously a pastry chef; his talents are put to fine use in Mosaica’s desserts. The chocolate souffle is a nod to the now commonplace Manhattan kosher dessert, and doubtless there to please more conventional diners. (The peanut brittle ice cream and caramel sauce help it stand out from the pack.)

Molten Chocolate Cake

The real star was their interpretation of a plum clafoutis, paired with orange spice ice cream.

Plum Clafoutis

The financier with lemon curd was also well-suited to the French/Morrocan menu; a nice option for a lighter dessert.

Financier

I was delighted to have enjoyed a menu full of things I doubt I’d have ordered individually. I put my meal in Mosaica’s hands, and they responded admirably. (At $60 per person, the tasting menu was also a good value.)

I’m already finding excuses for another trip to New Jersey.

Mosaica
2933 Vauxhall Road, Vauxhall, NJ
mosaicakosher.com
(908) 206-9911

See all the photos from Mosaica on Flickr

Sushi @ Cafe Eilat, Brookline

Cafe Eilat (406 Harvard Street, Brookline, MA) began serving sushi several weeks ago, and I’ve had the opportunity to try it twice. Both times, fortunately, I’ve been pleased.

Tuna Avocado Roll @ Cafe Eilat

The tuna avocado roll (pictured above) tasted very fresh, with ample contents, and plenty of wasabi and pickled ginger alongside. My only minor culinary complaint is that the rice could be seasoned a bit more heavily — the roll risks tasting bland without some sweet acidity from the rice.

I will say that the price was a touch off-putting: $7.49 for the above roll. Non-kosher prices for tuna maki in the area range from $3.50 – $6; restaurants with serious ambiance command $6-$8. (Ingredients alone should not cost more than $3/roll.)

In all, it’s great to have kosher sushi in Brookline once again. I’m happy to enjoy a roll or two each week, despite the price. (For a crowd, I’d still be tempted to make it myself.)

Sushi is available on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturday nights, and Sundays.

Kosherfest, part 1: Meat

I attended my first Kosherfest this week. Kosherfest, in case you were wondering, is an annual trade show for the kosher industry, open to industry professionals and press. Many new (and old) kosher products are showcased at Kosherfest. Jon and Steven will probably get around to telling you what they saw, but in this post, I will focus primarily on the meat products.

First, the bad news: A representative at the Solomon’s/Noah’s Ark booth said that they currently have no plans to do any more kills of bison or elk. Since Solomon’s is the only company to produce kosher elk as well as the major producer of kosher bison, this is very disturbing news for the kosher consumer who wants game meat. In a presumably related story, the Abeles & Heymann representative said that they have no plans to bring back their delicious bison hot dogs (which are both lower-in-fat and better-tasting than regular beef hot dogs).

The last bit of disturbing news: First, some background. Whenever I make veal, invariably someone won’t eat veal because the calves are supposedly raised in an inhumane fashion. I always responded with the oft-repeated wisdom that kosher veal is different because R. Moshe Feinsten ruled that veal was not kosher due to the inhumane conditions under which the calves are raised. Since bob veal and free-raised veal are not raised in inhumane conditions (unlike both milk-fed and red veal), I always assumed that kosher veal was all of the bob veal or free-raised veal varieties, in order to comply with R. Feinstein’s position. However, just to be sure, I decided to ask at the OU booth at Kosherfest if the OU imposed any conditions on veal production. I was referred to an unfriendly gentleman in a grey beard. He tried to evade my question. Finally, I was able to get this out of him: “We don’t raise the veal.” So, I asked “You don’t impose any restrictions on how it is raised?” He responded that they followed USDA regulations. So, apparently “kosher” veal is not necessarily raised any more humanely than non-kosher veal. Disappointing.

Now on to the more interesting stuff:

The big news is the “Holy Cow!” kosher beef jerky. Holy Cow! comes in 4 flavors: original, teriyaki, sweet & spicy, and hickory. I tried the sweet & spicy, and it was quite delicious — tasty, but not too hard and dry. I make my own beef jerky and I have also tasted several commercial kosher varieties (including Jeff’s in LA, Prime Grill in NY, biltong from the now defunct kosherheaven.com, and RJ’s–which was also at Kosherfest) and the Holy Cow! sweet & sour that I tasted was definitely the best commercial variety that I have tasted. It was similar to homemade jerky in quality. I should point out, however, that the other 3 flavors appeared to be significantly drier. I also tried RJ’s again at the show, and it was indeed much drier and harder, with a less appealing flavor.

Also pretty exciting was the (very small) display at the booth of A.D. Rosenblatt Meats. Their poster loudly proclaimed “Glatt Kosher American Wagyu Beef.” For those of you who aren’t in the know, Wagyu is the breed of cow that the famed Kobe beef comes from. Kobe beef has to come from Japan, and it is a strictly-controlled name. Apparently, the Japanese government prohibits Japanese Wagyu cattle from leaving the country alive. However, recently Wagyu – black angus hybrids have been allowed to leave the country, so a couple of US ranches raise US “Wagyu” cattle. I was informed that A.D. Rosenblatt has an exclusive contract to do kosher slaughter at one of the two US Wagyu ranches. Anyway, they didn’t have any samples, so I can’t tell you how good it is. The next booth over was Glattbox.com, which distributes A.D. Rosenblatt meats online. They gave me a brochure, which listed Wagyu back ribs for $15.99/lb., Wagyu chuck eye roast for $24.99/lb., Wagyu french roast and first cut brisket for $29.99/lb., and Wagyu rib steak and standing rib roast for a whopping $49.99/lb. Quite pricey, but at least they have free shipping “on most orders.” Their prices on ordinary beef were MUCH better — $7.49 for minute roast is the best price I have seen anywhere, and $10.99/lb. for first cut brisket is also pretty good. However, the small print on the brochure indicated that service is only available in NY, NJ, CT, PA, and MD. Unfortunately, today I went to their website, and it was still under construction with no real information.

A.D. Rosenblatt also produces veal, lamb, and ordinary beef. The representative mentioned that they only produce the highest quality white veal. I assume he meant milk-fed veal, which is consistent with what the OU told me earlier in the day (and they are under OU hashgacha as well as CRC).

Rubashkins, which was recently bought out, was also at the show. The company name has apparently been changed from Agriprocessors to Agri Star. Their booth was sparse, but they were showcasing their pre-made meatballs and chicken wings. I tasted both, and they were both quite delicious.

Aaron's Heat & Eat Wings

Aaron's Heat & Eat Meatballs
Jerry Hirschman, CEO of Synergy Delivery System (SDS), had a booth exhibiting both pure sucralose (the active ingredient in Splenda) powder and sausage-making equipment. They were showing the famous Devro kosher edible sausage casings (previously mentioned here and here), which are made from natural collagen! Apparently, they are the US distributor for the Australian Devro. Unfortunately, they are only distributing two sizes — 22mm and 30mm, which are both too small for real salami (which should be at least 40mm and preferably 50 or 60). But, these sizes are quite suitable for sausages. They also showed a sausage stuffing machine. The sausage casings cost $150 for a box of 24 rolls of casing, each roll having 50 feet of casing. He also claimed to sell a kosher starter culture suitable for fermented meat products, so I hope to acquire some for my next attempt at salami making. By the way, if you want to purchase powdered sucralose, they also sell a 10kg drum for the low low price of only $1800.00. Of course, 10kg of sucralose provides the same sweetening capacity as over 6 TONS of sugar, which works out to be be about 3.5 times cheaper than sugar at retail (based on the $0.50/lb best price for sugar at my local supermarket), So, if a couple dozen people want to split a drum with me, I would totally spend $80 on a pound of sucralose powder…

Devro Sausage CasingsDevro Sausage Casings - Sizes

Very exciting was that one company was showing imported kosher Hungarian hard salami! This is real fermented salami! No taste tests, but it appears to be a French company callled Les Delices de Mathias with a product called Les Quatre Saisons Salami (The Four Seasons Salami). You can see some pictures below. The product does not appear to be on the market yet, however.

Four Seasons SalamiFour Seasons - Salami Sliced
There were also several producers of kosher chicken (and a few of beef as well), but nothing too exciting.

Social Media Meet-Up at Kosherfest 2009

Steven and I are pleased to announce that we’ve arranged a social media meet-up next Tuesday, October 27, 2:00pm, at Kosherfest in Secaucus, NJ. Meeting space is being graciously provided by the fine folks at Kosherfest and the Meadowlands Exposition Center.

Bloggers and tweeters are encouraged to register in advance as press. When you arrive, inquire at the press room where to find the meet-up conference room.

There’s no set agenda, but it’ll be nice to put some faces to the screen names and share our impressions of the event. Maybe we’ll even live-tweet. Please comment here or tweet @kosherblog to let us know you’re coming. Otherwise, see you there!

Kosherfest Preview: Holy Cow! Beef Jerky

There’s always a lot of junk food that makes its way to Kosherfest, and frankly, I couldn’t care less. What really gets me excited, and this should be no surprise for regular readers, are artisanal cheeses and zesty meat products.

In the latter category, Holy Cow! Kosher Beef Jerky looks promising. Available in original, sweet & spicy, hickory, and teriyaki, they’re already sold online and in several retail locations.

Both the individual packs and the cases are about $40/lb., which is in line with jerky.com’s non-kosher products.

AG press release causes confusion over butcher

This article replaces an earlier post.

Yesterday, Universal Hub reported that the Massachusetts Attorney General’s office issued a press release stating that they had settled allegations against Newton glatt-kosher butcher Gordon & Alperin for infractions of the Commonwealth’s kosher labeling laws which had occurred after the store dropped its supervision last year. (Their sign and website had not been updated to remove references to their kosher status.)

I appreciate the state’s efforts at consumer protection, but it seems the press release is causing more confusion and misrepresentation than it sought to prevent. Today, the Boston Herald, our bastion of journalistic integrity, published the story and called the store “faux kosher” and a “kosher faker butcher,” despite also mentioning late in the article that they were resuming their supervision.

In fact, as Kosher Blog readers know, their glatt certification was restored last month.

Moments ago, the Va’ad Harabonim of Massachusetts issued an urgent press release to clarify the confusion.

In the October 13, 2009 edition of the Boston Herald, an article appeared regarding the Massachusetts Attorney General fining Gordon and Alperin Butchers of Newton, MA for “advertising ‘Kosher Meat’ when the shop was no longer kosher certified.”

This is referring to the time period between September 2008 and August 2009 when Gordon and Alperin did not have any kosher supervision. Since the Rabbinical Council of Massachusetts has been giving supervision starting on September 2, 2009, there have been no violations of any kosher laws and the highest kosher standards have been maintained in the facility with a full time kosher supervisor present.

The article mentions that one of the violations had been that the proprietor advertised on his website as being under kosher supervision. In May 2009, we received a phone call from a consumer informing us that the Gordon and Alperin website had on it that the store was under the kosher supervision of the Rabbinical Council of Massachusetts. We immediately sent a letter directly to Ricardo Bosich, the owner, requesting that he remove the information from the website. Within a week, the website had been taken down.

We look forward to maintaining kosher supervision at Gordon and Alperin as it continues to provide Glatt kosher meat to the Greater Boston Jewish community.

In the end, what started as a reasonable settlement of a bygone issue by a repentant and cooperative store owner has become a wellspring of negative publicity. Let’s support Gordon & Alperin so they can weather the storm. We made a delicious carbonnades à la flamande with Ricardo’s “french roast” over Sukkot, and his skirt steaks looked beautiful — there’s still time to grill them before it gets too cold out!

Update (5:23pm): A friend reports that the Brookline Tab has also picked up the story. Their article spares us the epithets, but it has flaws. First, it states that the store has only “sought certification on Sept 2″ and “reapplied for kosher certification last month.” Second, it quotes rival kosher certifier Rabbi Rachmiel Liberman, of Diamond-K, for comment on the situation. He’s relevant since he drafted the state’s kosher labeling law, but it’s an obvious conflict of interest for one agency to size up another.

Is a hot-dog eating contest Kosher?

On October 25th, 2009, Brooklyn Burger Boyz will be hosting a hot-dog eating contest at their Brooklyn location:

This grand event will be held on Sunday October 25th at Brooklyn Burger Boyz, 533 Kings Highway in Brooklyn between the hours of 1 & 2PM.

The Hot Dogs will be supplied by A&H – Abeles & Heymann Franks, held to the strictest Kosher standards while our buns will be supplied by Pas Yisrael. A large percentage of our proceeds will be donated to food relate causes.

It will $10 to enter and each contestant will be given 5 minutes to see how many hot dogs he can eat in that time. The first 5 winners will receive a free Brooklyn Burger Boyz meal for 2 – $25 value, plus a $300 cash prize for whoever come in first. So come Sunday October 25 and enjoy a feast of the greatest Kosher Hot Dogs

Is this an appropriate event for a Kosher audience? I’m not sure. In the spirit of full disclosure, I have participated in a Kosher eating contest before, but something about this bothers me. Maybe it’s the “wasting” of bread? Maybe it’s the chance of a “reversal”? What’s your opinion?

Gordon & Alperin kosher again!

A dark time in Boston kashrus — marked by the absence of a full-service glatt kosher butcher — has come to a close, and right in time for the holidays.

Today, the Va’ad Harabonim of Massachusetts announced that Gordon & Alperin (543 Commonwealth Avenue, Newton, MA) is under their supervision as of September 2, 2009. A message from the Young Israel of Brookline further stated that Gordon & Alperin has a mashgiach temidi and all meat is glatt.

My long-weekend barbecue plans just got tastier!

Happy Birthday Pomegranate Supermarket

I just received this press-release, about the birthday celebrations for Pomegranate Supermarket in Brooklyn, NY. Sounds like a party!:

WHAT: From 9:00am – 10:00pm on Wednesday August 19th, the gourmet kosher store known as POMEGRANATE will celebrate its first anniversary on Coney Island Avenue in Brooklyn with a host of special events for kids and adults alike.

WHEN: Wednesday, AUGUST 19 ( 9:00 AM – 10:00 PM)

WHERE: 1507 Coney Island Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 718-951-7112

EVENT LINE UP:

  • First 1,000 customers will receive a gift valued at $10.00; Clown with balloons for kids
  • Anyone who makes a $50.00 purchase is eligible to win the grand prize of two round trip tickets to Israel
  • Tastings & Samplings all day from bakery, deli, take-out and all departments
  • Anyone celebrating a birthday on Aug 19th receives a $100 Pomegranate Gift card
  • 4:00 PM- Community VIP’s
    • Assemblyman Alan Maisel
    • Assemblyman Steven Cymbrowitz
    • Borough President Marty Markowitz
    • Councilman Michael Nelson
    • To be confirmed: Mayor Michael Bloomberg, former U.S. Senator Fred Thompson
  • 7:00 PM – Ventriloquist Show
  • 8:00 PM – 10:00 PM – Country Yossi Live Radio Broadcast/webcast from Pomegranate featuring singers, entertainers, interviews with customers & more
  • 10:00 PM- Grand Prize winners announced